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Turkey Rock climbing with just passive gear

Original Post
Ethan S · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0

Going there for my first time soon. Just wondering how the cracks are with passive gear?

Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 669

I guess Big Bros are passive. Brings cams, you'll be happier.

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, Franktown, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

That's how we used to do it.

Ethan S · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0

More so wondering some good routes for it, just to clarify.

W K · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 167

No u need aggressive gear

Matt C · · Colorado Springs · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0

For Turkey Rocks cams will make your day a lot nicer, but the cracks usually have enough variation through them that passive gear will work. If it is your first time, I would suggest going to Turkey Perch and climbing all of those routes. It has easy TR access to throw a rope down if you don't think your passive gear will protect it to your standards. The anchors at the perch are usually set pretty far back from the lip, so a long cordalette or static line will make your life way nicer if you plan on top roping the routes. 

Kevinmurray · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 0

If it is a crack at Turkey Rocks it was and can be done with "passive" gear.

Alan Barry · · Castle Rock, CO · Joined May 2015 · Points: 20

Go for it. Most of the routes at Turkey Perch can be lead on passive pro, especially the more popular cracks, like Honky Ass Jam Crack and Reefer Madness. Nuts and Hexes for sure. Big Bros for something like Gobble Up and the likes. But IMO, have a back up rack with cams with you, just in case you want some gear to plug real fast.

Weston S · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 0

I did it when I was broke and didn’t have many cams, though I had tricams and I guess tricams don’t count as “passive.” People gave me weird looks, but I wasn’t climbing that hard, so it was fine. Decently possible. Make sure to have hand-sized and up pieces. Gearonimo in Colorado Springs cut me a great deal on 2-4 sized tricams back then.

Don’t let being broke stop you, if that’s the reason.

Q Grochala · · coal creek canyon, co · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 30
Weston Swrote: I did it when I was broke and didn’t have many cams, though I had tricams and I guess tricams don’t count as “passive.” People gave me weird looks, but I wasn’t climbing that hard, so it was fine. Decently possible. Make sure to have hand-sized and up pieces. Gearonimo in Colorado Springs cut me a great deal on 2-4 sized tricams back then.

Don’t let being broke stop you, if that’s the reason.

I did the same thing. biggest peice I had was a #1 at the time, and boy was I surprised when I realized the 5.6 I picked at the perch was just a chimney because I was too dumb to read route descriptions and now we’re soloing. Most of my rack is still from trips to boulder sports recycler though. 

there’s tons of cool finger and thin hand cracks you can sew up with nuts. Lack crack and the other unnamed moderate one at the perch come to mind. Brown sugar down lower if you want to have to aid climb a 5.9... options for being humbled are endless! 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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