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Best small cam

Original Post
Kole H · · Denver · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0

I have been looking in to buying a set of smaller cams (<BD .3 equivalent). What brand can has the best combo of strength, range, price?

Chris Reyes · · Seattle, WA · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 40
Glowering · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 16

The best combo is your decision. Play with all of them, or place them if possible and see what you like the best what works where you climb. What factors  are most important to you.

IMO best holding power is totems. Best value is UL Mastercams. 

Garrett Hopkins · · North Freedom, Wi · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 80

Ballnutz

Mike-Mayhem · · North Bend, WA · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 70

Totems. Nothing compares... Aliens are second best, and then master cams.

Daniel Joder · · Barcelona, ES · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0

Another vote for Totems. 

Mike-Mayhem · · North Bend, WA · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 70

Whatever you do, dont buy X4s. I hate those things

Mike Gelles · · NJ · Joined Feb 2020 · Points: 0

Tots magoats

petzl logic · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 730

The only totem that is smaller than the .3 is the black. With that said, the best rack of small cams would be 7 black totems.

Nash Ward · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 4

Personally I love DMM Dragons. They have extendable slings which is really nice. The only downside is that they cost a bit more, but it is worth the price. If you need something cheaper then black diamond cams are the best way to go, or even get a nice set of larger nuts/stoppers. 

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252
Mike-Mayhemwrote: Whatever you do, dont buy X4s. I hate those things

Not to rehash it, but why?

Anyways TS the answer you are looking for is Totems.  Aliens/C3s for funky placements.

Ross Goldberg · · El Segundo · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 293

For smaller than the black totem, I have been liking the 0 and .1 Z4's. They have proven to be fairly robust to being aided on so far for me, haven't whipped on one yet though. I haven't placed any dragonflies yet but they do look pretty rad as well.

Rasputin NLN · · fuckin Hawaii · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 0

I picked up a set of dragon flies last season, red-grey. The stems are extremely flexible and the extendable slings are a nice touch. Some folks have complained about a rough action but mine all move quite smoothly. I checked out the Z4s in store and didn't feel as though the plastic collar on the stem, that's supposed to become more rigid when the trigger is pulled, was really effective at being flexible or rigid in any case, though maybe they need to be broken in a little. If head width was my primary concern, I'd probably try to purchase a set of C3s off the buy/sell/trade forum.

The dragonflies are cheaper and hold more force then some of the equivalent Z4 cams, though you could probably find used gear that's significantly cheaper like X4s or something. C3s still have a lot of demand but if you find some for ~$45 they are quite nice. Otherwise you could purchase Metolius which are the least expensive new cams on the market. 

Jaron a · · SLC · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 100

Metolius is definitely the best at its price. I've whipped on all of em from 00 to 1 and feel totally confident in them

Chris Fedorczak · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 0

I’ll throw in a vote for the ultralight Mastercams from #00-#5, but I’ve also been very impressed with the Z4s so far — enough to buy a set to compliment the ULMCs.

Kevin Kirk · · Oakhurst, CA · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 90

I’ve got totems and c4s, also I too like the small z4s. The z4s from 0-2 are tiny and super flexible 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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