Unparallel Newtro

Any reviews out there, specifically for those that climb a lot on granite?

Here is my short term review having broken in the shoe and done a bit of rock climbing in it:

The UP site is sorta wrong. It feels like a Hiangle in terms of stiffness, but the rubber is thinner and more sensitive.  The heel fits me a bit more snug. The shoe is slightly less downturned, but with less forefoot volume and a moderately pointier toe. The closure and entry system is actually super useful. A bit less midfoot volume than the Regulus and maybe the Regulus LV. The heel also feels way more secure for me. Super powerful toe, but doesn't feel as clunky as many stiffer shoes. The rubber overlaps with C4 in terms of shore hardness and feels closer to C4 than the RH rubber of the Regulus. Not a shoe for smearing, but could be a great granite/limestone/edging shoe.

I wear a size 10 street and am a 9.5 Sirius, 9.5 Sirius LV, was a 9.5 Regulus LV, 9.5 Hiangle, 40.5/41 Solution. They are incredibly snug/tight at first, but once on feel like a good balance. I could maybe go a half size up for longer sport/multipitch. These would actually be an awesome crack shoe. Very low toe profile and big toe patch. The closure system might get in the way when jamming really deep. I dunno. Super versatile shoe.

It breaks in to be quite a bit more sensitive and can actually smear better than you would expect. Dan Turner has a glowing review on his YouTube channel.
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​The TN Pro is weird to me. Fairly thick rubber and felt more voluminous than the Regulus in the midfoot.

Karl Walterswrote: Here is my short term review having broken in the shoe and done a bit of rock climbing in it:

The UP site is sorta wrong. It feels like a Hiangle in terms of stiffness, but the rubber is thinner and more sensitive.  The heel fits me a bit more snug. The shoe is slightly less downturned, but with less forefoot volume and a moderately pointier toe. The closure and entry system is actually super useful. A bit less midfoot volume than the Regulus and maybe the Regulus LV. The heel also feels way more secure for me. Super powerful toe, but doesn't feel as clunky as many stiffer shoes. The rubber overlaps with C4 in terms of shore hardness and feels closer to C4 than the RH rubber of the Regulus. Not a shoe for smearing, but could be a great granite/limestone/edging shoe.

I wear a size 10 street and am a 9.5 Sirius, 9.5 Sirius LV, was a 9.5 Regulus LV, 9.5 Hiangle, 40.5/41 Solution. They are incredibly snug/tight at first, but once on feel like a good balance. I could maybe go a half size up for longer sport/multipitch. These would actually be an awesome crack shoe. Very low toe profile and big toe patch. The closure system might get in the way when jamming really deep. I dunno. Super versatile shoe.

What size did you go with for the NewTro, half size or full size down from street size?

We have a new bouldering gym opening soon in the area - finally, an alternative to the only gym currently in Tucson - and I’ve been looking to try either the NewTro or TN Pro. 

Sorry, 9.5 in all UP shoes including the Newtro.

My parents live in Tucson and I actually like The Bloc. Rocks N Ropes has the Tension Board now too which is nice. What/where is the other gym opening up?

Karl Walterswrote: Sorry, 9.5 in all UP shoes including the Newtro.

My parents live in Tucson and I actually like The Bloc. Rocks N Ropes has the Tension Board now too which is nice. What/where is the other gym opening up?

No issues with the routes and the renovation at RnR is pretty nice. But, had issues in the past with the owner or management staff. I’ve worked with a lot of college students who’ve all had ongoing, very poor experiences with RnR regarding memberships, fees, and some pretty awful customer service. The climbing is great, everything else is terrible.

Phoenix has like six or seven climbing gyms and they don’t have the climbing community or access to climbing areas like we do (which might be why we only have the “two” gyms in town), yet the only climbing gym operation in Tucson has been RnR. It’s nice to see an alternative move in. Finally.

The gym opens in the fall - Rock Solid Climbing. It’ll be a bouldering gym up in Oro Valley.

Cool I’ll check it out when I visit my parents next. That and actually try to hit some of the local bouldering!