Premature Biner Wear?
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Hey there, hoping to get some advice on some biner wear. I know the wear is not bad enough to cause concern, but it does seem like it is wearing out much faster than I would expect. ---Edit--- Thanks for the help everyone. Decided to go with a steel locker to use for belaying and rappeling |
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Doesn’t really seem abnormal to me. |
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Normal wear. |
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Normal wear - especially as you use the same Petzl AM'D for almost everything (rappel, lead belay, TR belay, etc.). |
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Welcome to climbing the gear wears out.. |
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My previous locker is not showing any of this wear and it was subjected to the exact same treatment - not complaining about gear wearing out, but this one seems to be wearing out faster than the rocklock I was using before. |
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FrankPSwrote: I think I would get a full steel before the bulletproof. Not only are those crazy expensive, but I've seen where in canyoneering the steel plate on top wears thin and can cut the rope. |
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Allen Sandersonwrote: Explain? |
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Levi Xwrote: Full steel is very heavy. Do you canyoneer? If so you'll want separate crappy carabiners for that as they get jammed with sand etc. The edelrid is great. |
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It would be interesting to know how many sandy-rope raps can do that .... especially for a rope with a little sunscreen or PBJ on it. :) |
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greggryllswrote: Not yet. I may get into it if I move out west at some point. I'm not too worried about the weight difference. If I can't make it up a climb because of the weight difference I don't deserve the tick. I can always swap it out for lighter ones if I am doing anything with a long approach No complaints about the company, just saw that the steel plate on top could cause a unique failure mode which would be very difficult to detect. |
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Levi Xwrote: Rock lock carabiner is a full round stock, wears longer but is heavier. The biner shown in this thread is an I-Beam construction (if you look at the cross section of the biner it looks like and "I". This design shaves weight by cutting out material, thus lifespan. Totally normal wear for ~120 pitches of belaying and rapelling. |
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Tyler Swrote: Gotcha. That's unfortunate. I love the handling of my current one, but the prospect of replacing it twice a season isn't appealing. |
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Levi Xwrote: My previous locker is not showing any of this wear and it was subjected to the exact same treatment - not complaining about gear wearing out, but this one seems to be wearing out faster than the rocklock I was using before. Rope cleanliness is a huge factor as well. |
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Albert Bwrote: I've cleaned my rope twice already this season. I have a regular partner (read: the person I've climbed with for 95 of the 100 pitches) and they have not been seeing any of this kind of wear |
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I cant tell from just pictures. Is the silver anodizing worn through or can you feel the start of real groves with you finger? |
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Levi Xwrote: definitely the micro fractures. There is no mystery here. The carabiner is aluminum, aluminum is soft. While they are relatively long lived they ARE consumables. |
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Levi Xwrote: I heard someone climbing at Indian Creek replacing GriGri twice a year, so wear and tear can definitely get worse. I was using two dedicated beefy aluminum lockers for TR anchors, over 3 seasons, they developed ~2-3mm deep grooves from sandy ropes. Wear is definitely less on SS carabiners - I got two Metolius stainless lockers for less than 12 each. They are not light, but when I set up TR anchors it is not on anything that requires added lightness. |
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Levi Xwrote: Hard to say for sure without seeing it in person but based on the pictures and your statements I'd be comfortable putting another 120 pitches on it. Don't take my word for it though. |
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Looks like mostly wear from rappelling given the double groove. I'd bet your rocklock is showing similar wear, but it's less substantial seeming because of the solid stock. |
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I once rapped only 2 pitches (@300 feet+/- via ATC) in the rain at Coethedral and my brand new DMM Sentinel locker was grooved so deep from the ropes (over 3/8 of the way gone) that I retired it. Yours is not deep enough to even consider an issue. I understand it can occur anywhere there is gritty rock and it rains. |







