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Portland-Area Crag Statuses During COVID-19

Original Post
Nate Ball · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 13,396

Self-explanatory, here's the spreadsheet. Any and all feedback welcome. Though I'll probably just ignore the trollolols.

This information is brought to you by the Portland Area Climbers Coalition.

Brad Larson · · portland · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 0

Smith Rock is opening Thursday, according to opb. Any idea how that's gonna work? Seems crazy.

Nate Ball · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 13,396

Locals only. I can't imagine what enforcement is gonna look like. How do you maintain social distance on that bridge? Are they going to sanitize the handles/knobs to the toilets and water fountains? Or just close them? What happens when people start parking on the road and walking in? Portland folks are insisting it's their right to get out there and will only climb "obscure routes".

I really hope I'm wrong but I just don't see this working out. If the weather forecast holds, Friday is gonna be a circus.

Princess Puppy Lovr · · Rent-n, WA · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 1,756
Nate Ball wrote: Locals only. I can't imagine what enforcement is gonna look like. How do you maintain social distance on that bridge? Are they going to sanitize the handles/knobs to the toilets and water fountains? Or just close them? What happens when people start parking on the road and walking in? Portland folks are insisting it's their right to get out there and will only climb "obscure routes".

I really hope I'm wrong but I just don't see this working out. If the weather forecast holds, Friday is gonna be a circus.

I think any opening of smith is going to be an absolute circus had it happened a week ago or a month from now or 4 months from now. I don't know if trout creek is open but maybe the government would prefer 200 groups at smith and 20 at trout creek to 75 groups at trout creek. Would the government prefer people spread out with more people outside with more travel or people travelling less but all having to consolidate to what is open.

Nate Ball · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 13,396

Yeah it's weird... my impression was that it was going to open much later. Trout Creek is open now too. This may impact Warm Springs and Madras where there has been very little infection thus far. The vast majority of climbers have been respectful and responsible so I just hope this transition can happen without having to re-close everything immediately.

Cam Brown · · Portland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 176

If people use common sense, act responsibly given the pandemic situation and practice LNT rules, then I believe there should be no negative impact. The problem is not every person uses common sense and knows how to act responsibly much less LNT.

Paul L · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 337

I imagine that Smith will have police and rangers on site to patrol and turn people away, similar to how the coast is responding:
https://kval.com/news/local/police-turn-700-people-away-from-cannon-beach

I would not be surprised to hear of cars being towed, tickets issued and hundreds of people turned away at the turn off.  

Patrick Beeson · · Portland, OR · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 171

Just curious: What makes a site "developed" vs not? For instance, Klinger and Pete's Pile are almost right next to one another.

Thanks!

Michael Brady · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1,392
Cam Hook wrote: If people use common sense, act responsibly given the pandemic situation and practice LNT rules, then I believe there should be no negative impact. The problem is not every person uses common sense and knows how to act responsibly much less LNT.

lol.

common sense, responsibility, and LNT practices rarely happen even individually and under the best circumstances

Nate Ball · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 13,396

Language found at https://www.fs.fed.us/lei/forest-rules.php
"Developed recreation site" means an area which has been improved or developed for recreation.

So in the case of Klinger Spring, it's the signage at the parking lot which is the trailhead for Zigzag Trail #768. It can also mean a bathroom, campground, lookout, etc.

Nate Ball · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 13,396

Huge development that I'm going to bury in the depths of an MP thread: Ozone is open

Nate Ball · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 13,396

From the Mt Hood National Forest Covid-19 FAQ

First Question: "What is closed on the Mt. Hood National Forest?"

"All developed recreation sites are closed to public entry and public use. This includes all campgrounds, day-use sites, fire lookouts & cabins, sno-parks, OHV areas, and trailheads."

Bill, your quote seems to be taken from the Shasta-Trinity National Forest page. Different management area, different regulations.

Yannick Gingras · · On the road, mostly Southwest · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 302

Thank you for compiling this information, Nate!

Billcoe · · Pacific Northwet · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 936

Thanks Nate, I deleted my post to avoid confusion. Appreciated! 

Nate Ball · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 13,396

This has been updated with the reopening of the Gorge and Mt Hood National Forest. Basically everything is open except Broughton Bluff and areas closed for falcons - Beacon Rock south face and Madrone Wall. Some important considerations to keep in mind in the notes column.

Michael Ardron · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 143

As a heads up on OH8. It is open but no one has been out to check for nesting falcons, so just keep an eye out and stay away from any nesting.

Nate Ball · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 13,396

Broughton Bluff is now open.

Michael, I think you meant Rooster Rock; OH8 has never had falcon or any other raptor (maybe a kestrel?) nesting there as it's too short. The ospreys on Rooster Rock appear to have chosen a different nest site this year.

Jared Willis · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 0

Thanks for the updates Nate. Sorry you take some shit sometimes for being helpful. 

Nate Ball · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 13,396
Jared Williswrote: Thanks for the updates Nate. Sorry you take some shit sometimes for being helpful. 

No worries man, the community as a whole always has been and continues to be resilient and supportive of one another. Thanks for the kind words.

Patrick Beeson · · Portland, OR · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 171

I got an email reply from the folks in Clackamas County that Madrone will not open until Aug. 1 due to raptors not wanting to leave the nest:

According to our wildlife specialist, the Peregrine falcon fledglings are a little more delayed in leaving the nest than usual. The park will open August 1 this year.
snowdenroad · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 50
Nate Ballwrote: Broughton Bluff is now open.

 OH8 has never had falcon or any other raptor (maybe a kestrel?) nesting there as it's too short. 

There was, at one time, a falcon on the next cliff band up the road from OH8.  The trail below that cliff was closed to hiking.  However, OH8 itself was not closed b/c climber are not visible from the nest, so long as they stay off the cliff top.  I don't think the falcon has shown up in recent years and the USFS has stopped signing and closing that trail.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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