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climbing by the coast outside Vancouver/Squamish region?

Original Post
Zach L · · Northern Vermont · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 10

feels very strange to be thinking of summer plans, but there are only so many hours in a day to read and worry, and also, love for each other and our special places is more important than ever right now, right? or is this just terribly selfish? don't answer that. anyway,  i will be in the pacific northwest for a couple weeks this July climbing in the north cascades, then through Vancouver to pick up my ocean loving romantic partner, and then to Squamish to drop my rock and ice loving climbing partner off. My romantic partner climbs a bit, and is happy to crag in squamish for a day maybe, but she wants to paddle, be by the ocean, and see some sights. the climbing will not be the focus of the trip at that point. what I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for more off the beaten path, quieter crags in the area, preferably by the coast, but maybe even not? Any sea cliff climbing? I appreciate small quiet crags that have decent, solid but maybe not excellent climbing, as long as the rock is solid. And if I have to paddle out of love, suggestions for that would be appreciated as well; I am a birding enthusiast, though not a birder.

Thank you.

Cairn War Machine · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 6

Fyi,
As of the 20th of March the Squamish Access Society has requested no climbing for 6 months due to Covid-19.

SAS Covid Update ​​​

GTD · · Bowen island, BC, Canada · Joined May 2015 · Points: 5

I’ve not seen any timeline given of not climbing in the Squamish area. I live in the corridor, where have you seen on SAS a 6mo no go? As for great beach crags, once safe to go into different communities, I recommend picking up the local guide book that was put out by Rich Wever. He’s put in some great beach crags in the book. Some that I have put up. 

Zach L · · Northern Vermont · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 10

Thank you for your input. I will certainly respect all guidance in regards to travel and access during this time period and err towards safety and being a responsible member of society. this trip is pretty much a hypothetical at this point, based on the assumption that life is "back to normal" by the time July rolls around. I know that is a very big assumption...

I will check out RIch Wever's guidebook. Thank you for the suggestion. If there are any other ideas or suggestions, I would be happy to daydream...

Thanks again.

Meredith E. · · Bainbridge Island, WA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 5

Not sure how far off the beaten path you plan to go, but once you get North of Horshoe Bay on the Sunshine Coast, things get pretty remote pretty fast (I scuba dive out of Egmont and Northern Vancouver Island a lot).  Plenty of hiking and paddling, but not much climbing that I'm aware of.

Xam · · Boulder, Co · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 76
Peter Gilbert wrote: Fyi,
As of the 20th of March the Squamish Access Society has requested no climbing for 6 months due to Covid-19.

SAS Covid Update 

Here is the 20 March – SAS COVID-19 Update for posterity.  I do not see any reference to 6 months or any other fixed time period.

 
GTD · · Bowen island, BC, Canada · Joined May 2015 · Points: 5

As a nice trip for you guys. You can paddle over to Seymour bay, Bowen island, from horseshoe bay. Make sure you check winds and currents before heading across the sound. It can get really chossy some days. Seymour bay has beach side sport climbs ranging from 5.10b to 5.12+ and a nice beach landing for your boats. No need to paddle with a full rack. I did the scrubbing and recon on these routes before bolting. These climbs are posted on mountain project. But please only come over once this virus has all past us and we’re back to normal. 

GTD · · Bowen island, BC, Canada · Joined May 2015 · Points: 5

Meredith E.,

If your up on the coast you should check out Eldred valley. There’s a short trailer on YouTube called On The Verge and there are pics on mountain project. But this too, only head up once we’re all clear of all of this. 

Meredith E. · · Bainbridge Island, WA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 5
GTD wrote: Meredith E.,

If your up on the coast you should check out Eldred valley. There’s a short trailer on YouTube called On The Verge and there are pics on mountain project. But this too, only head up once we’re all clear of all of this. 

Thanks for the tip!  Yeah, I'm sticking close to home (like, not leaving my own island if I can help it) for this, but the next time I'm up that way (someday...) I'll definitely check it out!

Zach L · · Northern Vermont · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 10

thank you everyone for the beta. i am sending healing and positive thoughts to all.

Chris Small · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 271

Vancouver rock climbs is authored by Rich Wheater not Weaver. And Squamish is on the ocean with sea cliff climbing accessible by kayak across the mouth of the Squamish river. The sea cliffs are detailed in Kevin McLane's Squamish Rock Climbs Vol.1.2018. 

Zach L · · Northern Vermont · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 10

Thanks Chris! I guess the sea cliff climbing is not talked about as much as the Chief and other crags in Squamish. Have you climbed the sea cliffs? what did you think?

Chris Small · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 271

I haven't climbed at the Sea cliffs as I am not a water person at all. Mountains yes, oceans no. Luckily we have both in Squamish. Heard good things though. One thing to consider though is Squamish means "The mother of the wind" in local First NationSalish language. Strong afternoon winds often develop in Howe Sound which could make conditions pretty hairy. 

Zach L · · Northern Vermont · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 10

I'll tell ya, I have been plenty gripped ice and rock climbing, but there is a special type of sustained terror involved with being in a sea kayak for several hours in big seas. Thanks for your advice!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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