Have you whipped big on tiny gear?

Travis S wrote:

Took a ~5 foot fall onto a bad totem placement if that counts. It held but the cam rotated and one lobe umbrella-ed. Sad day, except I pulled the rope and redid the route and got the send on the same day. 

This cannot be. I say you chopped the wire just for the picture. Black totems are known to be indestructible and to make you invicible.

To me 6kn gear is standard gear. I only worry about how much rope is in the game when using 5kn 4kn gear.

I once caught a 15 ft fall on a #1 RP. Bullet quartzite and a good placement. Required a cold morning to retrieve the nut, but it went back on the rack. The climber was 50 ft above the belay when he fell.

Timothy Fisher wrote: To me 6kn gear is standard gear. I only worry about how much rope is in the game when using 5kn 4kn gear.

I once caught a 15 ft fall on a #1 RP. Bullet quartzite and a good placement. Required a cold morning to retrieve the nut, but it went back on the rack. The climber was 50 ft above the belay when he fell.

^^^^The legend here...

I fell 18-20ft on a blue ballnut in a tricky placement in granite and it held.
It broke, and got stuck like they do, but it came out with a little extra love.

I've only gotten injured bouldering, tiny gear is way safer.

Eli Buzzell wrote: I fell 18-20ft on a blue ballnut in a tricky placement in granite and it held.
It broke, and got stuck like they do, but it came out with a little extra love.

I've only gotten injured bouldering, tiny gear is way safer.

Nice. What route has a potential fall onto a #1 Ballnut?!

. If the bally holds your your ankles just graze the pad a little when you blow it in the bad no-no zone. The FA was on all fixed pins but now the only fixed gear is a useless rusty bolt 10 feet off the ground because aid climbing is just soooooo hard nawmean?
#spraylife

Franck Vee wrote: I fell on a black totem (which is 0.2 equiv. I think, but too lazy to check) from maybe 5 foot above on a finger crack. It was fine.

But it's a black totem, so I might as well just have ran out the whole pitch, taken a full rope length fall factor 2  on it  and it would still have been fine, since it's a black totem.

Still love me my Totems. Nothing is indestructible unless maybe Deadpool. 

Took a 20 footer onto a #4 micro stopper after an old fixed rp exploded. Also have taken some decent falls on purple 0 metolious and a couple on grey 00 tcu's, I trust them alot if they are in good rock.

bridge wrote: Honest question, when quoting fall distances are we talking (1) distance above the piece, (2) free fall before the rope starts to catch, or (3) peak to trough?  

I judge my falls Hawaiian-style. From the back of the wave. Even though you only surf the front. So they're all 2-feet. 

I took a 25' whip on a horizontally placed black alien and it miraculously held. It was a poor placement, more of a mental piece, but it was all that was available. I still scratch my head as to how it held with only 3 lobes on. That cam was taken out of service after that fall though.  

Yes.  But is was in great rock.  And this is the point.

I ripped two pieces while soloing the tombstone in Moab. Fell 15-20 feet after a blue alien umbrellaed and then a green alien below it failed. This is what caught me.

Eli Buzzell wrote:
This thing. If the bally holds your your ankles just graze the pad a little when you blow it in the bad no-no zone. The FA was on all fixed pins but now the only fixed gear is a useless rusty bolt 10 feet off the ground because aid climbing is just soooooo hard nawmean?
#spraylife

What part broke? I assume the little wire to the ball. I kind of figured any real fall onto one of those would ruin it. Thankfully I never tested that theory, you did it for me!

Btw, pads are poor ethic ;)

lol, this thread is awesome....during the years BD C3s were available, and Aliens were mired in recall after faulty making....I used to be able to take folks to the clearing below the Nose to 'see the climbers,' which always involved someone taking a fall from a C3 pulling.....hope we've moved on from those times, lol....it's a Totem Life! Woot Woot ! E
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I cannot remember how long the fall was, maybe I was just a foot or so above the piece. But a Black Alien held my fall, and the placement was marginal at best. It was granite, but that section of the rock was of questionable quality. I really love small gear... I wonder when confirmation bias will come back to bite me.  

Ive fallen 15’ on two lobes of a black totem

The 0.3 below this caught me. As everyone is saying - its all about the placement. This cam here was placed on layback in a marginal placement. 

Ted Wilson wrote: Ive fallen 15’ on two lobes of a black totem

Ted, that is freaking amazing.  I know Totem MT is really careful about saying that the two lobe option is never really meant to catch falls (only aid), but this is truly confidence inspiring.  Was the head (+lobes) of the cam really slotted in there which helped the fall or was it truly the 2 lobe placement which held?

Took a 30 footer on an aid route in Zion onto a 00 TCU which was in a shallow seam on only on two cams.  Glad it held.  I'd backcleaned a ton and woulda been a huge fall if the TCU had pulled.

Low fall factor...I was over 100 feet out at least.  Kept the force low I'm sure.

Had another fall, probably only 20 feet, onto a #1 TCU that rode down the crack around a foot before it held.  Also glad it did, as, the bolt I'd placed in the blank rock below it had fallen out.  Up high in the white rock in Zion.  Had a bit of rope out, so, also low fall factor.

I whipped on a .3 C4 in a crappy uneven placement. At the time I was 185lbs, plus I had a pack and a bunch of gear so definitely 200+ total. It bent the lobes backward on one side just a little bit, but it held. If it were a single axle cam maybe it would have been destroyed.