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Where to practice

Original Post
Ryan Craggin · · Sandy OR · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 5

I live in Oregon and have just started getting into aid climbing. I really enjoy it, but I’m not very efficient or fast. I’d like to change that. Is it appropriate to find a not busy free route that goes at 5.11/12 and practice my clean-aid and hauling technique? If not does anyone have some recommendations on where to practice aid climbing in the PNW. I’m willing to drive several hour in any direction from Portland.

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,096
Ryan Shuler wrote:Is it appropriate to find a not busy free route that goes at 5.11/12 and practice my clean-aid and hauling technique? 

Yes. 

Clint Cummins · · Palo Alto, CA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,759

Broughton Bluff - basalt cracks.    Just pick one that has few stars!
https://www.mountainproject.com/area/108302891/hanging-gardens

Beacon Rock, South Face - many steep crack climbs.
https://www.mountainproject.com/area/111087707/south-face

Note:  I have not climbed at either place.
But these are the places I would visit and see if there are continuous cracks for practice aid.

Brock B. · · Seattle, WA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 211

Index, WA has some decent options. Practiced on City Park and some other nearby cracks for The Nose.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106328525/city-park

WoodyW · · Port Orchard, WA. · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 70
Ryan Shuler wrote: I live in Oregon and have just started getting into aid climbing. I really enjoy it, but I’m not very efficient or fast. I’d like to change that. Is it appropriate to find a not busy free route that goes at 5.11/12 and practice my clean-aid and hauling technique? If not does anyone have some recommendations on where to practice aid climbing in the PNW. I’m willing to drive several hour in any direction from Portland.

Why wouldn't it be? Go for it. Ask around at your local gyms if you can get on a bolt ladder, if they have one. Granted, not all grade IV or V routes have bolt ladders, but it doesn't hurt to practice on and time yourself and something to get better at.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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