Echo Tee accident Saturday February 8th.

Kristian Solem wrote:

After I was at the anchor and called down off belay, she took me off and put on her shoes.

Her harness was a Metolius as I recall. Anyway, to tie in the rope had to be pushed through 3 loops, two on the waist belt left and right of center and one where the leg loops come together. So you'd thread the rope down through the top right loop, across through the central loop where the leg loops join, and back up through the top left. Then you tie the knot (or finish it in the case of a figure 8.) These loops are a tight fit for the rope. So she got as far as threading the rope through the loops on her harness but never tied her knot.

Distracted by the Scouts and then by me, she had the rope through the loops but never tied her knot. The rope was tight enough through the "snug loops" that it stayed there despite there being no knot.

Fortunately she climbed beautifully and never weighted the rope as she came up.

When I started lowering her at first she held onto the rope with a tight grip. As she moved down into steeper rock she loosened her grip confident that the rope would hold her, but instead it started slipping out of those loops on her harness. She realized what was happening and held onto the rope before the end slipped through her hands.. 

I loved that harness !  - Picture(s)  coming as soon as  I  can convince a surly member of Gen' BangBabang- :                                                                                                       A member of the school-shootings generation,  to model it for me. . . ,

Wait for it......

When climbing, the tie-in gnot would be properly dressed to achieve a small loop
 The rope could be "wrapped"; passed through the tie-in loops twice, a very snug fit,
helping to hold the rig up while tying in - forming a 2 loop anchor/belay loop.
 Allowing the loop to become sinched down on itself.
 So not "welding the gnot" when & if you used a re-thread...

A Loosely tied; Sloppy but safe single bowline

Kristian Solem wrote:

After I was at the anchor and called down off belay, she took me off and put on her shoes.

Her harness was a Metolius as I recall. Anyway, to tie in the rope had to be pushed through 3 loops, two on the waist belt left and right of center and one where the leg loops come together. So you'd thread the rope down through the top right loop, across through the central loop where the leg loops join, and back up through the top left. Then you tie the knot (or finish it in the case of a figure 8.) These loops are a tight fit for the rope. So she got as far as threading the rope through the loops on her harness but never tied her knot.

Distracted by the Scouts and then by me, she had the rope through the loops but never tied her knot. The rope was tight enough through the "snug loops" that it stayed there despite there being no knot.

Fortunately she climbed beautifully and never weighted the rope as she came up.

When I started lowering her at first she held onto the rope with a tight grip. As she moved down into steeper rock she loosened her grip confident that the rope would hold her, but instead it started slipping out of those loops on her harness. She realized what was happening and held onto the rope before the end slipped through her hands.. 

Got it.  The mention of the bowline threw me off.  Holly shit; I'll bet her eyes got real big, yours as well.  Adrenaline musta been flowing big time.

Free solo!

John Penca wrote:

Got it.  The mention of the bowline threw me off.  Holly shit; I'll bet her eyes got real big, yours as well.  Adrenaline musta been flowing big time.

We made eye contact when we realized what was happening. Then she looked down and got down to business. I never took my eyes off of her though. Saucer eye'd or snail eye'd, i'm not sure which.

Kristian Solem wrote:

We made eye contact when we realized what was happening. Then she looked down and got down to business. I never took my eyes off of her though. Saucer eye'd or snail eye'd, i'm not sure which.

Saucer eyed and adrenaline pumped would be my call.  Good thing both of you kept your heads in the game.  I've had that type of eye contact before; like you wrote, it stays with you forever.

I could make a comment here but I'll refrain. I might be called an old fart again and have someone
use my screen name in some derogatory way.

But, this thread proves my point I tried to make on another thread.

Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain wrote: I could make a comment here but I'll refrain. I might be called an old fart again and have someone
use my screen name in some derogatory way.

But, this thread proves my point I tried to make on another thread.

What's your point? I promise this is a safe space for old farts.

Is there some kind of database for Joshua Tree accidents?

Russ Walling wrote:

Yeah, it’s over at WideFetish

Where, exactly, Russ? 

Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain wrote: I could make a comment here but I'll refrain. I might be called an old fart again and have someone
use my screen name in some derogatory way.

But, this thread proves my point I tried to make on another thread.

Dwain AKA Cosmiccragsman wrote: We are safe together.

Hahaha. Another imposter.

Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain wrote: Hahaha. Another imposter.

You should feel flattered.

Gumby the White wrote:

You should feel flattered.

That's two now. the first one deleted his account.

At least this new imposter is not an, OLD FART.

lolol

I just had too. Changing my name back now. Fair well! 

Tragic to hear about such accidents. But I can't understand when I read things like, he thought a 70 was long enough, I'm pretty sure this rope is good or whatever. Common sense to always tie stopper knot, especially if you have any doubt at all. I always climb with the attitude I can't be to safe.  Wishing a speedy recovery to all involved.

Dwain AKA Cosmiccragsman wrote: I just had too. Changing my name back now. Fair well! 

If you ever in Vegas or the Apple Valley area, after my recuperating time from the back surgery,
PM me and we can go climbing together, safely

:-)

BITD no one made mistakes.... It's these millennials that cause all the problems. idk I have read a lot of old climbing history because I love that stuff, those dudes did a lot of stupid stuff and made a lot of dumb mistakes. I can not recall anyone rapping off the ends or lowering off the ends (but seriously who lowers in jtree? Just walk off) but I know there are a couple stories of forgotten knots and ropes being too short, leaving them stuck out in no mans land. Mistakes have happened even to the old guys. 

Jon Hillis wrote: BITD no one made mistakes.... It's these millennials that cause all the problems. idk I have read a lot of old climbing history because I love that stuff, those dudes did a lot of stupid stuff and made a lot of dumb mistakes. I can not recall anyone rapping off the ends or lowering off the ends (but seriously who lowers in jtree? Just walk off) but I know there are a couple stories of forgotten knots and ropes being too short, leaving them stuck out in no mans land. Mistakes have happened even to the old guys. 

Dear #OkBoomer, it seems like you've not read the thread or the more detailed post...  to summarize (and stolen from the victims friend) please read the Bolded parts:

"Echo rock was my buddy, I was finishing up touch and go while he was setting up double dip for some newer climbers. He was being belayed by a newer climber. He’s done that route multiple times over the last couple decades but it’s been 5+ years and he doesn’t climb much anymore..."

Yes the younger generation is "easily" offended when we're frequently targeted and blamed.  We are your creation. 

Gumby King wrote:

Yes the younger generation is "easily" offended when we're frequently targeted and blamed.  We are your creation. 

Man I wish I had someone else to blame for all my mistakes and problems.    

Kevin Mokracek wrote:

Man I wish I had someone else to blame for all my mistakes and problems.    

Just pick someone then, its easy. I choose to blame trump for all my problems.