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Best places to climb in Tuscany!?

Original Post
Mat Tougas · · Sioux Falls · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 0

I’ll be in Tuscany near Florence in June.  What are the best and closest places to climb in the Florence area?  What’s the best place to climb in all of Tuscany? Renting a car so can and will travel!

Lee Harris · · Cleveland, TN · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 30

Subscribed! We'll probably be there in the fall, but looking for suggestions all the same.

Max Nanao · · Grenoble, FR · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 0

Hi guys - I'm going to be climbing in Camaiore in a couple of weeks -- I'll let you know how it is.
max

CliffP · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 10

Hi Guys,
June will be hot so I would chase shade. Also a lot of the climbing is on private property so please respect it.
There is some nice sport climbing and you will certainly need a car to get to the spots. Most of the climbing is tightly bolted. Locals are super friendly.

The congolomerate here is very cool and solid with climbs up to around 5.10+.
La Pietrina
https://27crags.com/crags/la-pietrina

This is a limestone crag with a bunch of different options:
https://www.falesia.it/en/crag/523/figline-di-prato.html

Also this is a good spot for some limestone climbing:
Monsummano
https://27crags.com/crags/monsummano

Rock quality is generally ok.

Those are my suggestions but of course I haven't climbed everything here. If you can head up to the alps or the apuan alps even I would suggest that since the temps will be much better and there are some sweet long routes up there and the refugios are usually a very nice experience.
~Cliff
 

Dario Alfani · · Golden, CO · Joined Nov 2019 · Points: 0

Are you looking for crags with single pitches or mostly for multipitch climbing?

For sport climbing single pitches there are a lot of places to climb in Tuscany, but the most famous one is certainly the area around Camaiore.
The most famous ( and pretty impressive) crags of the area are Candalla (both Alta and Bassa) and San Rocchino.
Another really good crag is Monsummano, which is closer to Pistoia.

It also depends on what's your level.
For example, in Monsummano you can find almost every grade while San Rocchino is definetely not for beginners (if I remember well the easier route is around 11d-12a).

For multipitch routes I should look at Torri di Monzone (Monzone towers) or Pizzo Uccello in Alpi Apuane (Apuan Alps).

Mat Tougas · · Sioux Falls · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 0

Thanks all!  Dave I’m looking for moderate sport most likely. I prefer multi pitch but I’ll have my wife with me and not my regular partner so I’ll have to keep things on the easier side.   Plus I’d like to just pack my sport rack but can bring more gear If needed.  My main criteria is proximity to Florence and moderate.  Thank you!!

Dario Alfani · · Golden, CO · Joined Nov 2019 · Points: 0

So probably the best one is Monsummano, it is around 45 minutes from Florence city center and you can find a lot of stuff there.
Close to the crag you can find a lot of hot springs and spas where you can chill after climbing.
Other crags not as beautiful as Monsummano but really close to Florence are Maiano (an old quarry, just 15 minutes from Florence) and Figline di Prato (around 35 minutes I guess).

Mat Tougas · · Sioux Falls · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 0
Dario Alfani wrote: So probably the best one is Monsummano, it is around 45 minutes from Florence city center and you can find a lot of stuff there.
Close to the crag you can find a lot of hot springs and spas where you can chill after climbing.
Other crags not as beautiful as Monsummano but really close to Florence are Maiano (an old quarry, just 15 minutes from Florence) and Figline di Prato (around 35 minutes I guess).

Thanks!!!  Looking forward to my trip...
Mat Tougas · · Sioux Falls · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 0
CliffP wrote: Hi Guys,
June will be hot so I would chase shade. Also a lot of the climbing is on private property so please respect it.
There is some nice sport climbing and you will certainly need a car to get to the spots. Most of the climbing is tightly bolted. Locals are super friendly.

The congolomerate here is very cool and solid with climbs up to around 5.10+.
La Pietrina
https://27crags.com/crags/la-pietrina

This is a limestone crag with a bunch of different options:
https://www.falesia.it/en/crag/523/figline-di-prato.html

Also this is a good spot for some limestone climbing:
Monsummano
https://27crags.com/crags/monsummano

Rock quality is generally ok.

Those are my suggestions but of course I haven't climbed everything here. If you can head up to the alps or the apuan alps even I would suggest that since the temps will be much better and there are some sweet long routes up there and the refugios are usually a very nice experience.
~Cliff
 

Thanks Cliff!  How far of a drive do you estimate it is up to the alps crags from Florence?

CliffP · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 10
Mat Tougas wrote:

Thanks Cliff!  How far of a drive do you estimate it is up to the alps crags from Florence?

The apuan alps are pretty close <2hr drive from florence. There you can find some cool limestone climbs and really nice hiking. This site has more detailed info: http://www.toscoclimb.it/public/v2/modules/news/

There are a lot of easy climbs/scrambles up there and some really cool hikes. I wouldn't really day trip it but stay in a refugio up there. The ones I have been to have great food and service but I imagine will be busy that time of year. It is rad though to hike and climb all day and come back to a warm fire and some nice wild boar pasta. Also usually you must pay in cash so just be aware.

Going to the alps proper is a longer trip and depending on where you go like 3-6 hours to most areas to drive to. There is tons of info out there on going to the alps and dolomites. Its a great place too but I won't go into detail here since there is plenty you can already find by googling.

If you have only a day I would stay closer at one of the suggested crags close to florence.  

~Cliff

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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