New 5.10 Mocasym issue

I finally got a new version of the Mocasyms. I assume the leather issue with tearing was fixed.  I was very happy!!

However,  when I took them out of the box, they seemed like an entirely different shoe.

Much less aggressive and a totally different heel cup. My heels were sliding around yet they were extremely tight.  (Same as I've had for years)

I returned them and purchased the Up mic from unparalleled. They fit and wear exactly like the old mocs.

I dont understand. Also, the UP mocc feels nothing like the five ten. It's not a bad shoe, but its 3x stiffer and doesn't break in very well.

They completely changed the Mocasyms. It's less aggressive, bad rand, different mold. I have pics but It wont let me load them

Can you share a little more about the UpMoc? I like the idea of a stiffer Moc. Any more comfortable/supportive in handcracks? I imagine they aren't board lasted or anything, just stiffer leather?

A stiffer Moc kind of defeats the purpose.

Ted Pinson wrote: A stiffer Moc kind of defeats the purpose.

Depends what your purpose is. I don't use them for gym climbing or any kind of climbing besides wingate splitters. I like them for the low profile but would prefer a little more support across the midfoot area when things get wider than green camalots.

Z Winters wrote:

Depends what your purpose is. I don't use them for gym climbing or any kind of climbing besides wingate splitters. I like them for the low profile but would prefer a little more support across the midfoot area when things get wider than green camalots.

They are stiff becasue theres way more rubber on the top, plus I think their sole is thicker, and maybe the leather is just stiffer too. I wore it for about 2 months and sold them becasue they were boards the whole time. I like moccs becasue they become moldable, not so I can stand on an edge for 20 minutes. I prefer smedging in moccs, not edging.

Ma Ja wrote:

They are stiff becasue theres way more rubber on the top, plus I think their sole is thicker, and maybe the leather is just stiffer too. I wore it for about 2 months and sold them becasue they were boards the whole time. I like moccs becasue they become moldable, not so I can stand on an edge for 20 minutes. I prefer smedging in moccs, not edging.

Ok cool thanks good info. I certainly have no interest in standing on edges, just curious if they could have the advantage of moccs for thin cracks with a little more support in handcracks.

Z Winters wrote:

Ok cool thanks good info. I certainly have no interest in standing on edges, just curious if they could have the advantage of moccs for thin cracks with a little more support in handcracks.

They wouldnt be nearly as good for thin cracks because the rubber on top makes them less pliable and pretty bulky. They wouldnt squeeze in a thin crack very well, but, for the things they do fit in, they'd be a lot less painful than five ten moccs.

I found the UP Mocs to be initially pretty stiff but then they broke in very quickly to become a perfect gym 11a-12a shoe. I have bouldered in them outside and they were fine for that though just a little wider in the forefoot than I would like. The rubber on top is very thin and has no serious effect on their flexibility or bulk as far as I can tell. I would recommend them so far.

This sounds like an ad for UP.. lol

Jeremy R wrote: Honest question: I've never considered mocs even sightly aggressive....how have they made it less aggressive?

I guess for every person who considers shoes of this general style to be at least somewhat "aggressive", there's someone else who considers them "boards". (coughMJupthreadcough)

Gunkiemike wrote:

I guess for every person who considers shoes of this general style to be at least somewhat "aggressive", there's someone else who considers them "boards". (coughMJupthreadcough)

Five ten moccs are obviously not boards, the UP moccs, for the time I wore them were complete boards..... for a mocc. Obviously they're not TC Pros, but much stiffer than I was hoping for.

The UP Moccs are not stiff, though they are not as soft as some shoes nowadays. I would consider them on the softer side, though the heel is definitely:
1) shallower than the current 5.10 mocc
2) more tensioned than the current 5.10 mocc
3)more structured than the current 5.10 mocc
They are unlined leather shoes with no midsole, and the rubber (RH) has a Shore A hardness of 76-80 (~the same as C4).
Not the softest, but definitely not the stiffest.
In my experience they break in to be my go to smearing and toe-hooking shoe. They stick really well in cracks (though by no means am I good at crack climbing).
Hope this helps!

Point is, the newest version of 5.10 Mocs is a brand new shoe. It's not the same as you have been buying over the years. 

Jeremy R wrote: Honest question: I've never considered mocs even sightly aggressive....how have they made it less aggressive?

How do you size them?

Some people size them ridiculously tight to take advantage of the stretch from the unlined leather.  That size they get pretty aggressive and climb decently on overhanging terrain.

Ok, now currently they don't want to refund my money because it's past 30 days.

This is very disappointing for 5.10

Update they gave me a refund.  Good job.