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What do you think of this placement?

Eli B · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 6,177

I'm thinking the picture was inadvertently rotated and that this is more likely the direction of pull, in which case:
Yeah its probably fine but I'd put in more gear when the opportunity arose.

Jason4Too · · Bellingham, Washington · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

Would flip then maybe whip.

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,516

If it was a white cam, it probably just assumed its placement.

M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911
Tim Stich wrote: If it was a millennial cam, it probably just assumed its placement.

FTFY

don'tchuffonme · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 26
Chris Jones wrote: Looks marginal.  I'd be worried it'd walk when i clipped it long and moved past.  I'd use one of my totems instead.  If it was all i had, i'd move with caution and hope i didn't whip.  you do what you gotta do.

This is the answer.  Not as good as "textbook".  Not as bad as "shit".  What are you gonna do if you're run out?  NOT clip it?

Gumby boy king · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 547
don'tchuffonme wrote:

This is the answer.  Not as good as "textbook".  Not as bad as "shit".  What are you gonna do if you're run out?  NOT clip it?

Looks like a good candidate for one of those old school 2" bongs instead. HAMMER THAT SHIT IN

Andrew Rice · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 11

If that were one of the orange totems that everyone complains are too floppy it'd be BOMBER. As it is, sure, I'd fall on that. 

Sam M · · Portland, OR · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 30

Ive done worse

Max Supertramp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 95

nope but I'd garble on and on about it on MP.

Kief Manning · · Elgin, AZ · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 0
Russ Keane wrote: Light shining ? What ?  You do realize that top part of the lobe doesn't matter.  Also and more importantly why did you start a thread asking others what they think and then chastise them.

Underneath brother. That left lobe does not appear to be touching anything. Chastise? Pretty sensitive there

Kief Manning · · Elgin, AZ · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 0
Eli Buzzell wrote:

I'm thinking the picture was inadvertently rotated and that this is more likely the direction of pull, in which case:
Yeah its probably fine but I'd put in more gear when the opportunity arose.

Fuck Eli. Well done. That looks much better

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16

The bottom of that crack looks like an ideal offset nut placement, between the trigger and the lobes of the cam.

Darren Mabe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669
TBlom wrote: Should have placed a tri-cam!

Or possibly a bolt

Kristian Solem · · Monrovia, CA · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 1,075

The wee bit of the sling that you can see makes me think that the original picture, orientation, is correct.

Looks to me like a smaller cam, or an offset, might fit further into the narrower (right) end of the feature.

An if the left lobe were not touching the rock, as some appear to be saying, then it would not be retracted as it is. 

BROsenthal · · Denver, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 25

I’d be pretty happy with that, depending on the direction of pull. But really, grow up and buy some totems like an adult.

C Limenski · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 15
Anonymous wrote: Not ideal. Flaring and shallow.  The other thing that never gets discussed is the effect on that cable stem if you do take a real sailing voyage on a horizontal placement and it holds. In many other mechanical applications (winches for example), any sharp deformation in a load-bearing cable = retire the cable.  Climbers are more apt to pretend all is golden...bra.

This is one of the things about BD ULs that seems awesome to me, but no one seems to bring up. 

That said, I agree this is would be a perfect totem placement 
Andy Eiter · · Madison, WI · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 276

“May or may not hold” is good enough for this book. 

F Loyd · · Kennewick, WA · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 808
Andy Eiter wrote: “May or may not hold” is good enough for this book.

I whip on the OPs placement before I hung on that books placement. 

The Weavers · · High Falls NY · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 10

depends on the direction of fall....fall to the right (definitely holds).....fall to the left (might hold)....clipping it for sure!

Andy Eiter · · Madison, WI · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 276
F Loyd wrote:

I whip on the OPs placement before I hung on that books placement. 

The book is Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide by Craig Luebben, for any curious.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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