Best All around crack/trad shoe 2019

Let's here them?  2019 brought some new stuff like the Grandstones, Generals, and others.  I'd like to know what you all think.  Also, I need a pair so yeah

As requested some clarification.  

Pretty much straight crack w/ some face climbing all on Trad.  Especially on southern sandstone

The best shoe is the one that fits your foot well. Some people like the TC pros, I find them way to narrow for my feet. It's all wearer department.

^Agreed. Also trad shoes is not necessarily specific enough. Trad in the creek is much different than trad in JTree. Either way find something that fits well and suits your style of climbing. 

I own both TC Pros and Evolv Generals. Been thinking of spending a day with one of each on just to see if something really stands out. I think my Generals fit a lot better, unless I'm climbing lots of crack, then the TCs fit better with a little extra toe room for foot jams. 

lethal weapon II wrote: ^Agreed. Also trad shoes is not necessarily specific enough. Trad in the creek is much different than trad in JTree. Either way find something that fits well and suits your style of climbing. 

Thanks, that needed to be said. Your footwear doesn't know whether you're clipping a bolt or placing a nut/cam.

I think high top shoes are generally overrated as far as a trad shoe is concerned and really only help in a handful of circumstances.   I do tend to like them however but would never say they are necessary.   I like the new Grandstone, I didn’t at first but it’s grown on me.   My favorite all day trad shoe right now is the Anasazi Pink, good edging, comfortable if sized right and smears and smedges well because it doesn’t have an aggressive downturn.  It’s the one shoe that I use if I have no idea what I might be climbing.  

Katakis, used to wear the tc pros which are def more confortable.  The slight downturn ofthe katakis makes overhang stuff mote confidence boosting

The best thing about the TC Pros is also the worst thing: once you jam them in a crack, it's an epic struggle to get them out again.

Trad Dad Atlas wrote: Katakis, used to wear the tc pros which are def more confortable.  The slight downturn ofthe katakis makes overhang stuff mote confidence boosting

They're discontinuing them :( 

I'm sad cause I was psyched to try on some pairs, but REI doesn't have them listed and I don't know where I'd be able to get any in my size (43 mythos) that offers free returns 

I like the Pinks.

The La Sportiva Katana Lace is the best all-round trad shoe I have tried.  The TC Pros are great when they are great but the slight downturn and the ability to jam thinner cracks make the Katana Lace a pretty rad shoe.  They can also face climb and edge extremely well.  If I had to pick one shoe to do everything it would be the Katana Lace. 

I have the generals and tc pros. Use them both equally. Tc pros sized for comfort. Use them for longer stuff and thin cracks. Generals I use for more face stuff or wider cracks and shorter routes. Generals don't stretch much and find them tighter than the tcps 

Tyler Bjorkman wrote: The La Sportiva Katana Lace is the best all-round trad shoe I have tried.

Agreed. I sized them up a 1/2 size for crack climbing and now they have become my go-to, do-everything-well outdoor shoe. Granted, I might not be climbing hard enough outside (up to 12s) to need specialized shoes for individual climbs, but I find myself reaching for my Katanas more than any other option lately regardless of the style.

Paul Morrison wrote: The best thing about the TC Pros is also the worst thing: once you jam them in a crack, it's an epic struggle to get them out again.

I'm glad I'm not the only one fighting this fight.

I got a pair of Generals at the end of the summer; haven't worn them much, yet, but I have a wanna love/kinda hate thing going with them. I want to like them ... but ...

+Built like tanks
+Like the fit
+Stiff
-Thick sole, lack of feel
-No feel edging
-Sizing: Holy shit, I've never worn a climbing shoe larger than size 10, the General 11.5 is tight and a 12 would be an all-day fit ...

Compared to TCs they feel like wearing a ski boot, not necessarily a bad thing ...

What are other's thoughts on the General?

I wear Pinks and Generals, much prefer the Pinks as an all-around shoe. Generals feel clunky and heavy and lack sensitivity. They perform well enough on a variety of terrain and I've gained some confidence in their smearing ability as the rubber broke in and roughed up.

I tend to wear the Generals on routes with wider foot jams and rougher rock. They are very well constructed shoes that have held up on gnarlier routes which would take a toll on my precious Pinks. Definitely prefer the feel of climbing in Pinks though.

mills101 Mills wrote: 
What are other's thoughts on the General? 

Disappointed. I wear 12s normally, these I got in 13s and they are tight. Toes are all curled so thin crack is a bitch. Rubber sucks on basalt, had foot jams just pop out.. The rand stretches so my toes are hanging out over the sole making edging impossible. I gave them at least 100 pitches and they are the most disappointing shoes I've bought, but for the deal I got I'm not too pissed. They're gym shoes now..

F Loyd wrote:

Disappointed. I wear 12s normally, these I got in 13s and they are tight. Toes are all curled so thin crack is a bitch. Rubber sucks on basalt, had foot jams just pop out.. The rand stretches so my toes are hanging out over the sole making edging impossible. I gave them at least 100 pitches and they are the most disappointing shoes I've bought, but for the deal I got I'm not too pissed. They're gym shoes now..

Yeah, also the rubber. I feel like I'm making excuses, but my foot has slipped a few times using these in spots where I know others shoes wouldn't have. Is it not just me?

There is no one shoe that will be the best at everything.  That being said, I climbed in TC pros for years and loved them until recently where i feel like the quality went downhill.  I switched to the Butora Alturas and like them a lot.  That's the shoe i'll wear for hand, fist, off-width cracks.  A good pair of moc-style shoe is what you want for rand smearing thin cracks without face features to edge on, however with 5.10 quality going down the drain, you'll have to look elsewhere.  A crack climb with face features for edging you'll want something with a stiff sole for edging power like the anasazi blancos, pinks, they used to make a shoe called the galileos which were really good edging shoes.  Sometimes, if that crack is steep and you need to power off of bad feet then a performance shoe is the best bet.  So really, you can't just have one shoe that does it all.  A quiver of shoes is the way to go! 

Kevin Mokracek wrote: I think high top shoes are generally overrated as far as a trad shoe is concerned and really only help in a handful of circumstances.   I do tend to like them however but would never say they are necessary.   I like the new Grandstone, I didn’t at first but it’s grown on me.   My favorite all day trad shoe right now is the Anasazi Pink, good edging, comfortable if sized right and smears and smedges well because it doesn’t have an aggressive downturn.  It’s the one shoe that I use if I have no idea what I might be climbing.  

Youre clearly not a crack climber!

Matt Pierce wrote:

Youre clearly not a crack climber!

You are right, I climb cracks but I would not call myself a crack climber, just a climber.  The original post was asking about all around trad shoes.  Asking a question on MP you are going to get a different opinion from everyone who answers.   I don’t think I’ve ever asked a question on MP for this very reason, I know I won’t get a good or definitive answer.   I would rather try things out on my own and make my own decisions.   

I take that back, I did start a thread asking when the new Grandstone was coming out because I’m such a bitchen trad crack climber and I need that high top.