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Permadraws at sandrock

Original Post
Men Boon · · East B'jesus · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 0

I'd like to put a permadraw on Super Grover on my next trip, but I'm not sure about the ethics or whatever.  

Ben Lyon · · Steele, AL · Joined May 2017 · Points: 5

Just hang 'em. It'll be "an experiment". 

Chuck Parks · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 2,190

I see no reason that climb needs any permadraws. Regardless, I would first discuss any placement or replacement of fixed gear at Sand Rock with the Southeastern Climbers Coalition. They are currently performing rebolting at the park in coordination with the park management. I usually just email them at info@seclimbers.org.

Men Boon · · East B'jesus · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 0
Chuck Parks wrote: I see no reason that climb needs any permadraws. Regardless, I would first discuss any placement or replacement of fixed gear at Sand Rock with the Southeastern Climbers Coalition. They are currently performing rebolting at the park in coordination with the park management. I usually just email them at info@seclimbers.org.

Thanks chuck

Jim Corbett · · Keene, NY · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 10
Chuck Parks wrote: I see no reason that climb needs any permadraws. Regardless, I would first discuss any placement or replacement of fixed gear at Sand Rock with the Southeastern Climbers Coalition. They are currently performing rebolting at the park in coordination with the park management. I usually just email them at info@seclimbers.org.

So, history shows a lot of retro bolting at Sand Rock. While we took out a bunch in '96, and Mikey took out a bunch of Johnny's BS in the early 2000s, I would have to assume that since Johnny is still there and those of us cared about such things aren't that there are today any number of retros. Question: Is the SCC rebolting retros? That would be pretty pathetic, but, a lot of what is going down in the SE these days is. 

To the OP: There are no ethics at Sand Rock, and have not been for 25 years.

Ryan7crew · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 651
Ben Lyon wrote: Just hang 'em. It'll be "an experiment". 

And the quote of the day goes to...Ben Lyon!

Men Boon · · East B'jesus · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 0
Jim Corbett wrote:

So, history shows a lot of retro bolting at Sand Rock. While we took out a bunch in '96, and Mikey took out a bunch of Johnny's BS in the early 2000s, I would have to assume that since Johnny is still there and those of us cared about such things aren't that there are today any number of retros. Question: Is the SCC rebolting retros? That would be pretty pathetic, but, a lot of what is going down in the SE these days is. 

To the OP: There are no ethics at Sand Rock, and have not been for 25 years.

Cool, thanks.  I don't go there too often, so I wasn't sure

Brad Caldwell · · Deep in the Jocassee Gorges · Joined May 2010 · Points: 1,400
Cole Metzger wrote:

Cool, thanks.  I don't go there too often, so I wasn't sure

If you don't go there often, maybe you shouldn't be the person to install a permadraw...

Men Boon · · East B'jesus · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 0
Brad Caldwell wrote:

If you don't go there often, maybe you shouldn't be the person to install a permadraw...

After trying Super Grover I may be there some more.

Ryan7crew · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 651

Without debating whether permadraws are the next crisis to strike the stoke of southeastern hardmen everywhere, no, Super Grover doesn’t need a perma.  Just clip after doing the moves like everyone else.  Is it scary, possible.  Is it going to kill you, no. If anything, it doesn’t need a permadraw to keep the southeastern chest thumping hardmen of olden times quiet.  Please, for all of our sanity, don’t do it.

Men Boon · · East B'jesus · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 0

Other than a bunch of hardasses talking about how it's not needed because whatever is there a legal or environmental reason not to?  Like seriously? So many people bail off, why not?

Garrett Harper · · Birmingham, AL · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 45

If you need to top rope the crux, then why don’t you just top rope the route?

Men Boon · · East B'jesus · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 0

Just at the third....

Josh Gaskin · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 1

If you place a perma on that route, it will be gone within the week.

Chuck Parks · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 2,190

A bail biner is standard practice; why not just leave one of those if you can't finish?

Alternately, you could just scramble up the left side of the formation and drop a top rope on the neighboring climb Windows. You can easily pendulum over and grab gear off the bottom half of Super Grover, leaving nothing behind.

Brad Caldwell · · Deep in the Jocassee Gorges · Joined May 2010 · Points: 1,400

Nothing like people neutering routes to bring it down to their bail level...

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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