Wild Country Zero Friends Review

New Wild Country Zero friends are due out March-ish timeframe and I was fortunate enough to receive a set for testing. Picked them up last week so have limited time on them, but wanted to share some opening thoughts and see if people have questions that I can answer, or certain types of placements I can show while I test them.

Open thoughts:
Stiffness is somewhere in the middle between an X4 and an alien, which is where I'd like to see it.
The width of the heads is awesome! See photos below.
Very easy to place.

Please let me know what you guys would like to see!

what is the smallest unit comparable to?

do they have rating strength written on the sling?

can you compare the flexibility with x4's and totems for horizontal placements?

any obvious concerns as to durability?

It is a shame they changed how the cable attaches to the head. The old Zeros had a flexible cable which ran all the way to the head, instead of that 1" or less stiff piece of steel you see on the new ones. As a result, the old Zeros would likely hold better in a fall where the direction of pull was not perfectly aligned with the placement, such as when a cam rotates or more so when the cam is placed in a small pod. Given that, combined with the small head-width, is what really set Zeros apart from the competition, it is unfortunate to see them take away one of those key features. Now it is just another small cam.

Wade have you used the Dragonflys to compare?  Wondering about the stiffness.  I have the smallest three DFs and like them but the smallest two are rather flimsy feeling.  Not much a concern so far but more curious than anything.

Also one of the things I enjoy about DMM cams in general is how smooth and pleasant the action is (even though that's such a superficial thing to judge on).  How do the Zeros feel?

Why are you comparing the red Zero to the black totem? Is the red really that big? I assumed it was a 0.1 size.

Also, I'm down with a deposit-rental-demo deal too haha

Have you taken any falls on them? I’m curious how they’re going to hold with the bigger cam angle, especially in Eldo.

Joey Jarrell wrote: Why are you comparing the red Zero to the black totem? Is the red really that big? I assumed it was a 0.1 size.

Also, I'm down with a deposit-rental-demo deal too haha

Joey,

Was just comparing size. These follow the same color schemes as the X4s. They are all the same headwidth, so it doesn't matter what size I hold up to the black totem.

Thanks

Joel M wrote: Have you taken any falls on them? I’m curious how they’re going to hold with the bigger cam angle, especially in Eldo.

Only fall so far has been on Bishop crack, which is splitter finger to tips granite.

They will be taken through my Eldo circuit here quite soon. Along I see them performing essentially the same in eldo as they did in granite. 

Mark A wrote: Wade have you used the Dragonflys to compare?  Wondering about the stiffness.  I have the smallest three DFs and like them but the smallest two are rather flimsy feeling.  Not much a concern so far but more curious than anything.

Also one of the things I enjoy about DMM cams in general is how smooth and pleasant the action is (even though that's such a superficial thing to judge on).  How do the Zeros feel?

Mark, 

Shot yah an email about getting out and comparing them together!
-Wade

petzl logic wrote: what is the smallest unit comparable to?

do they have rating strength written on the sling?

can you compare the flexibility with x4's and totems for horizontal placements?

any obvious concerns as to durability?

Will get back to you hopefully after tomorrow with some horizontal testing

How much do they weigh?

Any idea what the price will be?

eighty bucks!

according to the internet anyway: snewsnet.com/gear/hot-new-p…

Excited to compare these with the new BD Z4s. Both have small head width, BD has the rigid-flex stem going, but I do like the WC extendable sling.

I'm leaning toward Z4s. What are your thoughts?

So how are they holding up?

Briggs Lazalde wrote: The best thing you could do for this thread and your fellow climber is lend them out. Let us test them ourselves no? Deposits required is fair. let reputable MP tradsters only get their hands on them. Then this thread will have some substance 

LOL. I was surprised to see Plaidman doing this when Totems were first introduced (he went to Yosemite with a bunch and loaned them out to anyone who stepped up and asked). As far as I know everyone returned them after taking them out.

Any updates on your experiences with these? Their range is enormous, which seems to confirm the crazy camming angle (17.6°). If that's right, it is the largest on the market by a good margin - closest would be aliens at ~16°, I believe, which they balance by using softer metal for the lobes. Have you taken some falls on them? How is their holding power with such an aggressive angle? Are the lobes extremely soft/any concerns about durability? 

Working up a reply with more photos very soon.

I can say I have fallen on nearly every size, mostly in quality South Platte granite and Quarry Wall Basalt, nothing has pulled yet.
Took a comparison photo with a dragonfly as well, which is below:
Dragonfly on left, WildCountry Zero Friend on Right. Good bit smaller!

Anyone else have any experience on these? Would love to hear some more reviews, especially if anyone's had a chance to compare them to the BD Z4's.

Also, any updated beta on when these will hit stores?

Chris Stocking wrote: Anyone else have any experience on these? Would love to hear some more reviews, especially if anyone's had a chance to compare them to the BD Z4's.

Also, any updated beta on when these will hit stores?

Hey Chris,

So far I have the only set in the US and they have a target release late February/March.

I will try and get some comparison photos against a Z4 in the next week or so if I can find some Z4s.

-Wade

WadeM wrote:

Hey Chris,

So far I have the only set in the US and they have a target release late February/March.