Smith Rock suggestions

I am planning to go to Smith rock in second weekend of November. Need some suggestions on area to climb that would have good sun exposure to make it warm.

Looking for Sport <= 5.11a or Trad <= 5.9.

For morning - morning Glory wall, dihedral seems like a good option. But, any other suggestions ? Also any suggestion for the afternoon? I believe on the back side is better. Northwest face?

We did this lastYears Veterans day weekend.
If you want to knock off some classic backside stuff. starting there at 9 in the morning is a good idea you'll have the back side pretty much to yourself. It'll be chilly but the sun peaks up there around 11 or 12ish and full sun around 2
. And swing back over the pass and finish on the front side before heading back to camp at dark. It's going to be cold at night so bring a cozy sleeping bag. And double up your sleeping pad.
If you can muster motivation and wake up early like 7 or 8 you'll have morning glory to yourself for a few fleeting moments.

Hop on Bad Moon Rising on the Mesa Verde Wall, especially if nearly vertical technical climbing is your thing. Very fun route with some techy climbing to great rests before pulling over a roof. 

Deven Lewis wrote: We did this lastYears Veterans day weekend.
If you want to knock off some classic backside stuff starting there at 9 in the morning is a good idea you'll have the back side pretty much to yourself. It'll be chilly but the sun peaks up there around 11 or 12ish and full sun around 2
. And swing back over the pass and finish on the front side before heading back to camp at dark. It's going to be cold at night so bring a cozy sleeping bag. And double up your sleeping pad.
If you can muster motivation and wake up early like 7 or 8 you'll have morning glory to yourself for a few fleeting moments.

This is accurate advice. The whole park works a bit like a sundial so you can chase the sun basically all day (or conversely the shade in the hot months). Also the sun angles tool on the MP page for the park gives a pretty good idea of what to expect.

Lower Gorge has the best trad in the park, but it unfortunately stays pretty cold this time of year, and most of the grades start at 10-. I’ve found the majority of the trad in the main area to be pretty shitty and uninteresting. I’d stick to sport. The areas listed above are great options. Most popular are the Peanut and Morning Glory wall. 

Not a ton of trad to choose from in the main part of the park, and I've only climbed a little of it, but these are fairly fun and will be in the sun at some point in the day:

Lion's Jaw  
Sky Ridge (Do the 10c sport variation for the 2nd pitch)
Reptile
Out of Harm's Way (only need gear for the first 30' or so. Best 5.8 I've climbed at Smith)
Monkey Face via West Face Variation Direct to the bolt ladder to Monkey off My Back

I haven't climbed these, but have heard they are good:

Moonshine Dihedral
Spiderman

If it's real chilly, but not windy, you could head out to the Marsupials and do the Marsupial Traverse.  If comfortable, you can simul-climb a good bit of it and keep moving to keep you warm.  
Lot's of good sport over in the Marsupials, too.  

As for sport, you won't have any trouble finding good stuff 5.11 and under, but may end up choosing based on where the lines are shortest. 

Moonshine Dihedral and Spiderman are both really fun. Not sure about sun conditions this time of year at the Red Wall but Super Slab and Moscow are both fun multi pitch jaunts, and Chouinard's Crack is really good (but a bit short). I haven't done Kunza Korner on the Southern Tip, but it looks awesome!

cnadel wrote: Moonshine Dihedral and Spiderman are both really fun. Not sure about sun conditions this time of year at the Red Wall but Super Slab and Moscow are both fun multi pitch jaunts, and Chouinard's Crack is really good (but a bit short). I haven't done Kunza Korner on the Southern Tip, but it looks awesome!

Listen to this person.

West face direct variation on monkey face. Pretty rad 2 long pitches of 5.8 that gets you to the base of the bolt ladder. If you don’t wanna do the bolt ladder for whatever reason then I’m pretty sure you can rap off the far right side of the huge bohn street ledge with a 70m. Not 100% about the rappel requirements (haven’t done it myself) for that so don’t take my word alone for it. I think The 2 long 5.8 pitches would be in the sun a lot of the afternoon

 Monkey gets sun around 10 on the bolt ladder portion.Rapping below the bolt ladder would be a single 70 with some down climbing. But go all the way up monkey off my back is really fun! Bring 2 ropes though its a long rappel to the ground we did it with 2 70s. I'd reccomend snake rock lots of moderates Reptile was reccomend and I agree. Cling on is fun and just a super cool feature it's a little pumpy but the gear is good. Desperate man is really good too. These are in the sun at 2.

White Satin great climb but might be in shade by late morning or before. Checkbout Trezlar if you get over to Mesa verde wall.

Awesome!! Thanks for the suggestions.

I'll be there on Sunday Nov 10.  Hit me up if you need a partner. 6158389217

Tim Page wrote: White Satin great climb but might be in shade by late morning or before. Checkbout Trezlar if you get over to Mesa verde wall.

White Satin is a super awesome climb! Can confirm