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Alek Fredriksson
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Sep 18, 2019
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Columbia, MD
· Joined Sep 2018
· Points: 969
Has anyone tried out the new releases from Unparallel? I have been wondering specifically about the VIM, and how well it heel-hooks for being a slipper. But if anyone has tried out the NewTros, I'm down to hear any info about those, too.
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Alek Fredriksson
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Sep 28, 2019
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Columbia, MD
· Joined Sep 2018
· Points: 969
Thanks! That's super helpful to hear!
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Alek Fredriksson
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Oct 16, 2019
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Columbia, MD
· Joined Sep 2018
· Points: 969
How did you size the TROs compared to both your street shoe and other UP shoes?
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Alek Fredriksson
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Oct 16, 2019
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Columbia, MD
· Joined Sep 2018
· Points: 969
Thanks! How sticky is the RA rubber on the TROs, if you don't mind me asking? I'm debating whether or not to purchase the Sirius Lace LV, the Regulus LV, or the New Tro Lace. I love outdoor sport climbing on vertical, crimpy terrain, but I also comp climb, so I don't know which is the best all around. I've heard the Regulus is a pain to get on, but over time the elastic loosens up. I'm thinking of going with the Regulus for now.
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Alek Fredriksson
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Oct 16, 2019
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Columbia, MD
· Joined Sep 2018
· Points: 969
So you found that the Sirius Lace actually edges better than the Regulus? I feel like it would be the opposite due to the softer rubber compound.
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Alek Fredriksson
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Oct 17, 2019
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Columbia, MD
· Joined Sep 2018
· Points: 969
How does the heel of the New Tro Lace fit compared to the Sirius or other shoes? I have heard the toe-box is wider, but I haven't heard about how the heel fits. Thanks!
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David N
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Oct 17, 2019
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Los angeles
· Joined May 2017
· Points: 5
Picked up the vims, incredibly difficult to get on but loving them so far, they actually fit my heal with no dead space!!! Up moccs I can squeeze into a 10 and had to get 11 in the vims. I couldn't get my foot into the 10.5.
On my 2nd pair of the moccs, by far my favorite shoe.
Still have not been able to try on the regulus in my size, maybe one day.
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Alek Fredriksson
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Oct 22, 2019
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Columbia, MD
· Joined Sep 2018
· Points: 969
Has anyone tried the Unparallel UP Rise VCS or UP Rise VCS LV? If so, what is the fit and sizing like?
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Alek Fredriksson
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Oct 25, 2019
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Columbia, MD
· Joined Sep 2018
· Points: 969
KyleMFSpurgeon wrote Love the TROs, personally. The heel is might less aggressive than other models, so may not be a peak heel hooking so, but has an amazing toe that is more stiff than other UP offerings. TRO Lace is definitely my new sport shoe. Would you say the NewTro Lace could toe-hook or bike a hold if necessary? Basically does that added bit of toe rand add anything friction-wise?
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Alek Fredriksson
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Oct 25, 2019
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Columbia, MD
· Joined Sep 2018
· Points: 969
Have you tried the Vega? If so, how does it compare to other shoes in terms of edging ability? I guess I am wondering just how stiff they might be, even though they have softer rubber.
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Alek Fredriksson
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Oct 28, 2019
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Columbia, MD
· Joined Sep 2018
· Points: 969
KyleMFSpurgeon wrote: They're softer than the Regulus, for sure, but stiffer than the Sirius. They end up fairly malleable after a short break in period. A good in between as far as edging goes, probably closer to the Regulus side IMO.
But I think it has the worst heel of the three. What makes the heel worse? Is it the tensioning of the heel or is it related to the size of the heel itself or the opening of the shoe? I have a very small heel and I struggle to get a tight, shallow heel fit with a low-cut upper. For example, the women's miura vcs so far have had the best heel for me, even though they are not meant for heel hooking. The issue with the Sirius is the heel seems too elongated compared to my sportivas. The regulus didn't feel bad, but the only pair I have tried on was too large in the first place.
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Alek Fredriksson
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Oct 28, 2019
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Columbia, MD
· Joined Sep 2018
· Points: 969
I also have quite low ankles, which is why I like low-cut uppers around the ankle area. The UP Mocc actually hooks pretty well for me when downsized, at least for a slipper.
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Alan Zhan
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Oct 28, 2019
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Seattle, WA
· Joined Jul 2013
· Points: 191
Anybody here know their five ten anasazi, dragon, or black team size?
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Alek Fredriksson
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Nov 1, 2019
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Columbia, MD
· Joined Sep 2018
· Points: 969
Does anyone know what in particular about the Vega heel makes it worse? Thanks!
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Alek Fredriksson
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Nov 7, 2019
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Columbia, MD
· Joined Sep 2018
· Points: 969
The Vega heel looks to be lower-cut than the Regulus, is that actually how it fits? What heel on other shoes in general compares best to the Vega?
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Karl Walters
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Nov 14, 2019
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San Diego
· Joined May 2017
· Points: 106
Very late to the party, but adding some notes:
I got the LV version of the Regulus in both an 11 and 10.5, which is 1.5 and 1 sizes up from my 9.5 Hiangles. The 10.5 felt very tight and did not break in. I actually found them to never get comfortable and were horrible to get on. I would go with the 11 in retrospect. The rubber is thinner than a Hiangle so it is slightly more sensitive/pliable. I do not like the heel as much and it is not as comfortable.
I tried the Sirius in a 10, same size as my Dragons and holy shit are they high volume! Fit nothing like a Dragon over the midfoot. I got the LV in an 11.5 (they make it you just have to ask) and it seems to fit damn close to a size 10 Dragon, still higher volume. I do wonder if I should go down in the Sirius LV.
I have not tried their other shoes.
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Casey Collyer
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Dec 24, 2019
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Tucson, AZ
· Joined Jun 2019
· Points: 0
For those who’ve had a fair bit of time in the VIMs or other UP models, how have they held up? The old Five Ten V10s would bag out pretty bad after about a month or so; curious to hear if the VIM or other UP shoes hold their shape a lot better.
Just picked up the Sirius and they fit my foot better than anything I’ve worn in a long time. They actually fit my heel which is amazing.
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Karl Walters
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Dec 25, 2019
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San Diego
· Joined May 2017
· Points: 106
My friend has the Vim and loves them. Said they break in nice and haven’t gotten excessively baggy. I don’t know of anyone with any major construction or wear issues as of yet. Other than the clunky heel spine the Sirius also fit me nearly perfect and I plan on getting the new TN Pro when it comes out.
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Casey Collyer
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Dec 25, 2019
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Tucson, AZ
· Joined Jun 2019
· Points: 0
Karl Walters wrote: My friend has the Vim and loves them. Said they break in nice and haven’t gotten excessively baggy. I don’t know of anyone with any major construction or wear issues as of yet. Other than the clunky heel spine the Sirius also fit me nearly perfect and I plan on getting the new TN Pro when it comes out. TN Pro? I’ve seen a few things on IG hinting at some new models, but haven’t seen anything detailed. I’ll be looking to pick up the Regulus LV next and follow up with something that’ll make for a solid sport shoe that handles thin edges well.
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Alek Fredriksson
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Dec 25, 2019
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Columbia, MD
· Joined Sep 2018
· Points: 969
Will the TN Pro be limited edition?
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Karl Walters
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Dec 25, 2019
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San Diego
· Joined May 2017
· Points: 106
The Regulus LV sounds like it will edge better than the TN, but the rubber is thinner than standard. I do notice a bit less edging firmness compared to Hiangles.
I dunno if TN Pro is limited or not but I DMed them and it’ll be out very soon.
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