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The end all, be all onsight trad rack

Scurvy Dave · · Squamish · Joined May 2018 · Points: 0

Definitely depends on the length of the pitch.

My standard rack for multi pitches with rope stretcher pitches and gear anchors:
- UL Mastercams 1,2,3,4
- Totem basic 0.5, 0.65, 0.75, 0.95
- C4 0.5, 0.75(2), 1(2), 2(2), 3(2), 4
- Tricam Evo Set
- Torque Nut Set
- Offset stopper set

Glowering · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 16

A set of dimpled aliens
A set of first generation rock empire cams
5 fifi hooks
6 bottles of nitroglycerin (à la Vertical Limit. you never know when they'll come in handy)
Grappling hook (whenever I search "climbing gear" they pop up so they must be a must have)
Bolt Gun (à la Cliffhanger. You must need to be certified guide to buy them because I've looked and looked and can't find them anywhere).

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252
caughtinside wrote:

I think that's green alien size.  I never understood the fascination with C3s... I bought some when they came out over ten years ago and sold them after a week.  That fat middle lobe doesn't work well and the stem is super stiff in the direction you want it to flex.  

It’s the head width that sells them for me.  There’s just been too many times where I’ve been messing with a funky placement and the C3 JUST fits where a 4-cam unit would be tipped out.  The opposite is never true, so I find myself carrying them pretty often unless it’s a straight splitter.  They are definitely stiff so extension is usually a good idea, but that’s not a big deal for me.

Franck Vee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 260
abe r wrote: man really suprised to have not seen purple and grey (0/00) metolious yet.  Love those cams.

Yeah me too, though I would really say it's a love-hate relationship. At that size, I need a perfect fit to be somewhat confident. So I don't always bring them, I try to go with bigger stuff if at all possible...

Slartibartfast · · New York · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 0

12 pink tricams.

EJN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 263

One link cam, with 19 hinges to go from black alien size to vg 12. Bump it forever.

curt86iroc · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 274

hexes

Dylan Pike · · Knoxville, TN · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 555
Ted Pinson wrote:

It’s the head width that sells them for me.  There’s just been too many times where I’ve been messing with a funky placement and the C3 JUST fits where a 4-cam unit would be tipped out.  The opposite is never true, so I find myself carrying them pretty often unless it’s a straight splitter.  They are definitely stiff so extension is usually a good idea, but that’s not a big deal for me.

I love me some C3s. I place the red and yellow pretty frequently. They go in to shallow cracks and pin scars where a 4CU wouldn't dream of fitting.

Cole Darby · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 166

Red c3 is same size as black totem. So red c3s are pretty much pointless. The others are nice, but z4s do look to do a good job of replacing them.

Multi pitch onsight
-3-4 micro cams (anything is fine, small x4s, dragonflies, etc)
-black totem to orange totem x 2 (3 if linking or simul)
-#3 c4 x 2
-#4 c4 x 2 (only if you have the new lighter ones with trigger keepers, otherwise 1)
-I don’t onsight ow, so those cams come out only as needed
-Offset nuts and micros
-rap gear
-gri gri
-anchor gear (minimal)
-Kong duck
-slings (minimal)

This has comfortably gotten me up everything for a good while now. 

Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain · · Las Vegas, Nevada and Apple… · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 146

I don't take ALL my gear on a climb, but, I have ALL the gear I need to do pretty much any climb I want to.
Including routes at Indian Creek.
It's too bad I can't climb anymore.

That's why I am selling ALL my gear, including all my guide and climbing books

Nick Pf · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 66
Ted Pinson wrote: Doubles up to 3, will usually bring a 4 because I’m a pansy, then I end up placing like 3 or 4 pieces the whole pitch. 

Same, except I also bring a small aider just incase(for me or my follower), and I sew like a seamstress. 

Would rather have a well-fit piece that takes less time than to spend 5 minutes fiddling with something so that I could save a few lbs. Also like essentially having a whole single rack on each side at the start of the pitch ( minus whatever the anchor was made of ).

Cole Darby · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 166

Agree
An extra rack of totems weighs almost nothing and makes all of my placements perfect which means I spend less time fiddling and more time sending

I imagine at 11+ and up weight actually starts to matter 

brian burke · · mammoth lakes, ca · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 165
Cole D wrote: ...
An extra rack of totems weighs almost nothing and makes all of my placements perfect....

all of them are perfect?   

Cole Darby · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 166
brian burke wrote:

all of them are perfect?   

60% of the time they hold whips every time 

Fan Y · · Bishop/Las Vegas · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 995

I'm surprised. I'd have thought a standard MP crusher's rack would have been: half a dozen black totems and all the C3 you can get your hands on.

Sal F · · Oakland, CA · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 5
Glowering wrote: A set of dimpled aliens
A set of first generation rock empire cams
5 fifi hooks
6 bottles of nitroglycerin (à la Vertical Limit. you never know when they'll come in handy)
Grappling hook (whenever I search "climbing gear" they pop up so they must be a must have)
Bolt Gun (à la Cliffhanger. You must need to be certified guide to buy them because I've looked and looked and can't find them anywhere).

YES! on the nitroglycerin. And for anyone who hasn't seen the movie, this montage will get you up to speed:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uxtg7raPDYo

Nick Drake · · Kent, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 651

Petzl ropec
Omega wall hammer
6-10 3/8" power bolts
6-10 10mm fixe hangers
10 quick draws

Red C3 and blue totem are damn near the same range and exactly the same width. Quit bringing the red c3 once I got the totem. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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