Evolv shoes are crappy!

Justin Butler wrote: I made my tier list 

Interesting ranking, mine is as follows

A: El Sportivo, Scarpa, 5.10
B: Evolv, UP, Butora, Tenaya
C: Everyone else
D: Resoled Tier B, Mad Rock
E: Soill, Resoled Tier C

I dunno, between the $36 Anasazi Pinks or the $33 Evolv Astromans I recently scored (like new) for my wife, its a tough choice.

#1 - price
#2 - fit  

;)

Shoe Lasts vary greatly between manufacturers. Some will fit your foot, some will not. The Shaman is one of the few face climbing shoes that fit my foot. TC pros for everything else.

I have a pair of Shamans from maybe six years ago, resoled twice and still kicking (not just the smell either). Evolv shoes are great. Not crappy, at the very least. 

Any five ten shoe I’ve owned has not lasted half as long as my others.

Nah.  I disagree.  I've been climbing in a pair of Evolv Generals around Yosemite lately and have been loving every bit of them.  Sue me.

My lawyer will be in touch.

I reviewed the General after climbing 10,000 vertical feet outdoors and decided that I like it more than the TCP. When I got in the sharp end for p1 of Journey Home, I chose them over the Pro and was glad to have them.

https://sendersgamepodcast.com/2019/03/03/evolv-the-general/

TLDR: More durable construction, better for offwidth and edging, cheaper.

Fritz Nuffer wrote: I reviewed the General after climbing 10,000 vertical feet outdoors and decided that I like it more than the TCP. When I got in the sharp end for p1 of Journey Home, I chose them over the Pro and was glad to have them.

https://sendersgamepodcast.com/2019/03/03/evolv-the-general/

TLDR: More durable construction, better for offwidth and edging, cheaper.

Seriously? I bought a pair of Evolv Supras and a pair of Katana Laces at the same time with very similar fit and the supras seem fine until I try the same route with the Katanas...which edge and smear worlds better than the supras. Now I use the supras for easy warm ups or top roping exclusively so I can give my head and my arms an extra work out...

I say this because supposedly the general is built on the same last as the Supra and the TC Pro on the same last as the Katana Lace.

Scott Fagen wrote:

Seriously? I bought a pair of Evolv Supras and a pair of Katana Laces at the same time with very similar fit and the supras seem fine until I try the same route with the Katanas...which edge and smear worlds better than the supras. Now I use the supras for easy warm ups or top roping exclusively so I can give my head and my arms an extra work out...

I say this because supposedly the general is built on the same last as the Supra and the TC Pro on the same last as the Katana Lace.

Seriously. I’ve been using TCP’s for seven years but I prefer the “Gennies” now. 

K-laces are my go-to shoe for steep sport. Those, Generals and Mocs would be my ideal three-shoe quiver.

Fritz Nuffer wrote:

Seriously. I’ve been using TCP’s for seven years but I prefer the “Gennies” now. 

K-laces are my go-to shoe for steep sport. Those, Generals and Mocs would be my ideal three-shoe quiver.

Have you tried the Supra? If so do they climb similar to the general?

Scott Fagen wrote:

Seriously? I bought a pair of Evolv Supras and a pair of Katana Laces at the same time with very similar fit and the supras seem fine until I try the same route with the Katanas...which edge and smear worlds better than the supras. Now I use the supras for easy warm ups or top roping exclusively so I can give my head and my arms an extra work out...

I say this because supposedly the general is built on the same last as the Supra and the TC Pro on the same last as the Katana Lace.

You do realize that all the last does is control the shape of the shoe right?  It is very easy to have two shoes built on the same last that edge completely differently from each other depending on the shoe construction and the midsole type.  Think about the 5.10 anazazi line, the moc is built on the same last as the blanco, but there is a wee bit of difference between how those two shoes edge.

Scored some $30 Evolv Blackhawks during the Alpenglow sale and they're quickly becoming my favorite, even though I know they're 'crappy' 

I have 6 pairs of Optimus Primes. At 3 resoles each, I should be good for a few more years.

Scott Fagen wrote:

Have you tried the Supra? If so do they climb similar to the general?

I haven’t. But I think Ken’s comment about lasts is appropriate.

Professor Snax wrote: Shoe Lasts vary greatly between manufacturers. Some will fit your foot, some will not. The Shaman is one of the few face climbing shoes that fit my foot. TC pros for everything else.

I have a pair of Shamans from maybe six years ago, resoled twice and still kicking (not just the smell either). Evolv shoes are great. Not crappy, at the very least.

Any five ten shoe I’ve owned has not lasted half as long as my others.

I have a pair of Shaman 1's, owned them for 3 years. At this point I can't tell if my feet is breaking the shoe in or if the shoe is breaking my feet in. I would have bought anything else if it weren't 3x more expensive. 

Side note; I tried on a pair of Butoras a few months ago. I think I'm going to ask for them for Christmas.