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Favorite Bivys in Northern California

Original Post
Harrison Steins · · Harrison, NY · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0

What are your favorite routes to bivy on, whether on a ledge or at the top of the climb? I'm looking for a trad and/or alpine long multi-pitch with the opportunity to bivy on it. Going as a group of three and looking for something ideally 5.9 or under for this labor day weekend. What are routes you've been on anywhere as north as Tahoe area, and as south as Alabama hills/ mt Whitney area?

bill m · · sf peninsula · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 50

Two of us spent a beautiful night on Fairview dome crescent ledge August 17.  A bivy there turns a fairly intimidating route into a low stess outing.  No lines at 3pm.  No fear of a surprise afternoon Tstorm since you can evaluate.  No 5.9 pitches on day 2.  
Hauled dinner, breakfast and water and sleeping bags through lower pitches.  Carried the largly empty packs for the upper easier pitches.
The ledge will be less comfy for the 3rd person but id think it would work fine.

Timothy Carlson · · NorCal · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 140

My parents house. 

Glowering · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 16

I've always thought a bivy on top of Higher Cathedral Spire would be bitchin.

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

The Bestest bivy there ever was used to be located in Keene NY

mburbach Burbach · · Oakland, CA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 0

One of the best parts about bivying in Hobo Greg’s van is that there are never any lines.

Harrison Steins · · Harrison, NY · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0
bill m wrote: Two of us spent a beautiful night on Fairview dome crescent ledge August 17.  A bivy there turns a fairly intimidating route into a low stess outing.  No lines at 3pm.  No fear of a surprise afternoon Tstorm since you can evaluate.  No 5.9 pitches on day 2.  
Hauled dinner, breakfast and water and sleeping bags through lower pitches.  Carried the largly empty packs for the upper easier pitches.
The ledge will be less comfy for the 3rd person but id think it would work fine.

Thank you for this! I did this exact thing over labor day weekend. We started late enough that we didn't wait at any belay and no one was behind us and topped out in the morning with every other party at least 4 pitches behind!

MP · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 2
bill m wrote: Two of us spent a beautiful night on Fairview dome crescent ledge August 17.  A bivy there turns a fairly intimidating route into a low stess outing.  No lines at 3pm.  

Alternatively, just go climb it at 3pm... In the summer it gets dark around 8pm.  It's like 5 pitches of climbing and then fourth class. If you bivied up there I hope you carried your literal shit out. 

bill m · · sf peninsula · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 50
Harrison Steins wrote:

Thank you for this! I did this exact thing over labor day weekend. We started late enough that we didn't wait at any belay and no one was behind us and topped out in the morning with every other party at least 4 pitches behind!

So glad to hear it.

bill m · · sf peninsula · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 50
mpech wrote:

Alternatively, just go climb it at 3pm... In the summer it gets dark around 8pm.  It's like 5 pitches of climbing and then fourth class. If you bivied up there I hope you carried your literal shit out. 

Yes, a faster party can go faster.   But the question was about bivys on routes 5.9 and below.

We left no solid waste on the climb.   

MP · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 2
bill m wrote:

Yes, a faster party can go faster.   But the question was about bivys on routes 5.9 and below.

We left no solid waste on the climb.   

Good to hear.... 

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330



Calaveras dome

Harrison Steins · · Harrison, NY · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0

12 o’clock ledge-September 1st  great way to practice hauling just for a night and exactly the type of climb we were looking to climb quickly and wake up on. All climbing past the ledge was easy and made for a fast top out in the morning

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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