The great arch (Stone Mountain)

Looking into trying this classic route soon. Can anyone tell me what size gear we need? We have a full each up to BD cams #4. Would that be good. We also trad lead, comfortably up to 5.9. Thanks in advance. Cheers 

Climbs listed on Mountain Project have a Protection section which lists what the submitter thought would be adequate to protect the route.  Users often leave comments on the route page describing the rack they used.

Be aware that you have to get up to Tree Ledge to access The Great Arch.  Most people go up Block Route, U-Slot, or Entrance Crack.

If you're comfortable at 5.9, the 5.5 pitches of Great Arch shouldn't be of any concern.  P1 takes as many #1 and #2 as you want to throw at it.  P2 takes small/mid cams.  P3 takes whatever.

The "approach" to the base of the climb is going to be either Block Route (5.8 - easy climbing with a "thank god" C4 #3 after a runout, and then one hard move at the block that's well protected); or U-Slot (5.7+ - offsets good at the bottom, somewhat run-out 5.7 friction, and then pink and/or black tricam to protect the "v" variation); or Entrance Crack (don't go there!)

Be aware of your descent.  You can hike off easily, or rap with doubles.  I saw someone rapping off with a single rope one time - I'm not sure what he did but allegedly it's possible with some route-finding shenanigans.  Single rope off from the tree ledge is do-able if you go down to the anchor mid-way up Block Route.

If you do this route soon then you will need 10 gallons of ice water added to your rack. It will be so hot the rubber on your TC pros will melt until at least October. 

If you use Block Route as your first pitch, a pink tricam makes the crux move much less heady but small cams will get you there. 

I was there this weekend camping with the childrens.  It was in the high 80s/low 90s.  As mentioned, I'd stay away until at least late Oct.  We stuck to the waterfalls/creeks.  We did boulder a bit at the base early in the morning, in the shade, but were still covered in sweat in no time.

If you have some slab experience the routes to the tree ledge should be no problem, however if not, they could be intimidating.  Especially if you aren't use to run-outs either.  There are a few slab simulator boulder problems at the base you can warm up on to get a feel for the grip.

Its a super classic route.  Have fun.

Did this route a few weeks ago and can confirm that your feet will be burning. Would not recommend Stone Mountain until it cools off.

Regarding the rope shenanigans... if you have a 70 meter rope you can rap to the top of pitch 2 for Mercury's Lead, and then over to the top of pitch 2 of the Great Arch. The first two pitches are no problem with a single rope.

December is a great time to climb at stone. Double 2's on the first pitch of the arch itself (I think I had an 8 or 9 hex in lieu of that), else nothing special after that.
Recommend block route as the way to get there, mostly 5.3 with one or two moves of well protected 5.7. We did bring two ropes to simplify the raps.

I much preferred no alternative,
Less of a pain in the back,
And more fun

It's not that hot out and the route would be over in an hour and a half to two hours tops if you lead 5.9. Rope soloed it a couple weeks ago after other climbing for the first time. I had 5 finger sized cams and a couple tricams. I second the pain in the back comment. Very crawly. 

What's up with climbing at Stone mountain?  Isn't illegal or something?

Wrong Stone Mtn....N. Carolina, not Georgia 

csproul wrote: Wrong Stone Mtn....N. Carolina, not Georgia 

Ah, got it. I was like YES!! and then noooo 

+1 to it being WAY too hot right now
+1 to the No Alternative recommendation
+1 to bringing 2 ropes to descend (or shoes so you can walk off)
Getting to the tree ledge: the crux of Block Route freaks me out on lead; U-slot is more interesting and far less heady.  

The most important pieces if you take block route to arch is a #3 C4 and a camera to get a shot of your partner likely flailing and doing a beached whale on the block move.

The only places you can really fall are the block move which you can stuff full of basically any smaller gear and getting into the arch which is very polished and protected by the #3. Everything else is a cake walk you can't possibly fall off.

Heed everyone else's advice and don't do it I the heat.