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Mussey Hook issue

Original Post
Paul Deger · · Colorado · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 36

Today had something happen never encountered before with a Mussey Hook anchor. After the climb had been cleaned, at the bottom, pulling the rope and it jammed severe enough that at first, thought we may have to find another way up to free the rope. After a few strong sustained pulls, it finally broke free. Confirmed that no knot in the rope. Any guesses on what might have happened and how to prevent? A little more info: rope end had the manufacturer 's taped end which was intake after the rope was freed. Hook had a wire gate and small notch that the gate rested in the body. Thanks.

Malcolm Daly · · Hailey, ID · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 380

If a carabiner or mussy hook is laying flat on the rock and the end of the rope has a stiff finish to it, it’s possible that that stiff end can jam between the hook/carabiner and the rock. At this point you have a line that is fixed with a 1” fold. Your best bet is to whip and snap the rope in an effort to jiggle it out. Better yet, be sure that your ring, carabiner or mussy hooks don’t lie flat against the rock.

Unbelievably, SMC makes a gizmo called the  Endeez which may as well be designed to create this stuck rope situation.

Climb safe,
Mal

Sam Skovgaard · · Port Angeles, WA · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 208

Maybe there was a twist in the rope and it curled up, partially jamming on the hook (like what happens when you're belaying and there's a twist in the rope)

Paul Deger · · Colorado · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 36

From what I recall, these hooks were situated perpendicular to the rock and I recall that much play to rotate 90 degrees to lay flat on the rock.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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