Squamish Grand Wall Warm Up Tour

Hi all, I'm headed to Squamish next week for a fun week of cragging. I have a decent list of goal routes, mostly moderate, cause I don't have much experience climbing granite. That said, looking at pictures of the premier pitches on the Grand Wall like the Split Pillar sure gets the juices flowing.

For the relatively inexperienced, what easier routes might serve as a good fitness and technique check earlier in the trip to see if trying the Grand is a good idea or a sure ticket to gumby hangdogging disaster? Anyone have any ideas of routes that you could say, "If this didn't feel all that hard, you should be ok on the Grand Wall." Let's assume for now that the Roman Chimneys are not part of the package. Even better, what are three or so routes which might serve as a decent intro to the area of gradually increasing difficulty? Points for things that aren't already on the classics list on the Squamish page on MP.

I've climbed there, but only on one previous trip with people who didn't trad climb, so it was all bouldering and sport climbing.

Edited: spelling

Start at the bottom on Apron Strings.  If that seems really hard, you're not ready.  

Slahaney has some excellent 4-6 pitch routes that mimic the steep&pumpy corners nature of the Grand Wall. Go do Right Wing (10d). It is amazing, and is a good Grand Wall fitness check. If the long corner pitch and the last pitch on that feel not too bad, you’ll probably be ok on the Grand Wall. If they feel desperate, the Grand Wall might be a bit burly for you at the moment.

The Great Game is also good. 

Rutabaga would be a great warmup/readiness check for the layback cruxes on the sword and the pump on perry's lieback.  If you can do angel's crest or sunset strip, you should be set for the endurance of doing the harder pitches back to back.  

Great game. Sunset strip. Bulletheads east.

pkeds wrote: Great game. Sunset strip. Bulletheads east.

none of these 3 will be very comparable to the grand wall.  JCM's recommendation of right wing is pretty good, but most people will probably find it harder (and headier) than the grand wall.

A little testis- almost like a mini split pillar and if it feels hard you’re not ready 
A pitch in time, solid burly jamming
great game, a variety of 5.10 styles 
Photophobia, good 5.10 crackwork
Milk run corner, arguably harder than anything on the grand
Flex capacitor is like an easier Perry’s layback

The grand wall is fairly easy to frig your way up once you’re at the pillar, but make sure you’re comfortable on slabs as well. Mercy me is very runout and the flats pitch isnt a clip-up, the sail flake when you’re tired is a sting in the tail

slim wrote:

none of these 3 will be very comparable to the grand wall.  JCM's recommendation of right wing is pretty good, but most people will probably find it harder (and headier) than the grand wall.

Yes yes they will. There is a good 11a on that wall too. Grand wall felt easier than expected and we did these as warm ups along with apron strings.

When parties feel like they are over their head on the Grand Wall, it is usually due to the Split Pillar. It gets a modest grade of 10b, but if you are not used to steep long cracks, it has humbled more than a few. Look through the guide book and find all the small hands-big fist sizes you can find and do them all. If you are decent at face climbing/laybacking, then the rest will go. Work that crack technique.