Mountain Project Logo

Routes in the northeast FA'd/developed by women

Chris Duca · · Dixfield, ME · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 2,480
Nick Goldsmith wrote: thought liquid sky was Jimmy Surette?

Yes, I think it was.  I think she got the first female ascent.  

Jon Clark · · Planet Earth · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 1,533
Etha Williams wrote:
Excited to get on some of these...maybe not Lynn Hill's (unrepeated?) 5.12c R, though ;).

Yellow Crack Direct has been repeated.

chris magness · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 590

Etha,

I know of a 5.easy crack that could use a scrubbing (it'd be a FRA) and a slab to it's right.  Would be a quickie new route ground-up 15 minutes from the car.  Send me a PM, you're welcome to my drill and the beta and you can join the list!

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470
David K · · The Road, Sometimes Chattan… · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 434

From here:

  • Running Man 5.13d - Lynn Hill (1989)
  • Artificial Intelligence 5.13a - Lynn Hill (1984)
  • Typar 5.13a (TR) - Liza Mills (1990s)
  • Tweazle Roof 5.13a - Lynn Hill (1987)
  • Girls Just Want To Have Fun 5.12d - Lynn Hill (1987)
  • Organic Iron 5.12d - Lynn Hill (1985)
  • Darey Area 5.12c (TR) - Lynn Hill (1986)
  • Yellow Crack 512c - Lynn Hill (1984)
  • Poopooplexy 5.12a (TR) - Thea Marie Blodgett Gallahan (2012)
  • Devine Wind 5.12a (TR) - Barbara Devine (1985)
Jon Clark · · Planet Earth · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 1,533
David K wrote: From here:
  • Stupid Crack 5.12a - Kim Carrigan (1984)

Kim Cardigan is a dude from Australia.

Eric Bluemn · · Boise, ID · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 4,683

Peak Performance, 5.10, Acadia otter cliffs - Lynn Hill

Brian · · North Kingstown, RI · Joined Sep 2001 · Points: 799

Etha,
   I have a line (at the place you climbed with me) that is all yours if you want it.  Probably mid to hard 10.  As you know I have a drill.  
IMHO...a FFA is a bit demeaning to women.  Get an FA.
Brian

wivanoff · · Northeast, USA · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 714

For "Minty" at the Gunks, was Minty Warren male or female?

mbk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0
Brian wrote: IMHO...a FFA is a bit demeaning to women.  Get an FA.

I am guessing OP meant "first free ascent", rather than "first female ascent".

Etha Williams · · Twentynine Palms, CA · Joined May 2018 · Points: 349

Thanks Chris and Brian for the offers--that's incredibly generous of you! I'll send you both PMs.

Thanks also to everyone for the great information, stories, and photos!

And yep, I meant "first free ascent"...there should really be some way of disambiguating the abbreviation FFA.

Brian · · North Kingstown, RI · Joined Sep 2001 · Points: 799
mbk wrote:
I am guessing OP meant "first free ascent", rather than "first female ascent".

That may be but I believe others are referring to First Female Ascent.  For example, Liquid Sky at Cathedral. FA Jim Surette First Female Ascent Lisa Conway.                                    

Leslie Smith · · North Wilmot, NH · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 130

Social Obligation 10c  FA Leslie Smith and Frosted Flakes .7 /Fresh Squeezed 12d FA Paula king. Rumney.

june m · · elmore, vt · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 124

 I have  done a number  of FFAs  in vt  mostly  bolton and prospect rock, a lot of the ones at prospect  were R  rated  and had  bolts added later  by other  parties.  I am not offended by this nor would I ever consider chopping the bolts. I prefer the routes to be accessible by everybody. I've also done a number of less-than-stellar FFA ground up and have not mentioned them to anybody because I don't want my name associated with garbage in the Guidebook. For me it's about the experience of traveling new Terrain not about my 15 minutes of fame.

Bryce Adamson · · Connecticut · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 1,450

Raubenheimer Special led by Krist Raubenheimer. I always assumed Jackie was named after a woman, but I guess it is actually named after the FAist Jack Taylor.

Kristen Fiore · · Burlington, VT · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 3,379

Are we talking like, really good routes or just any of them? I can probably give you a few if classic status is not something you care about.

Also, bump to what Max said about the Adirondack Rock FA list.

Etha Williams · · Twentynine Palms, CA · Joined May 2018 · Points: 349

Thanks Chris and Bryce for the route names and June for the insight into your experience & philosophy doing FA's out here!

Kris, any route is fair game! And yeah, the ADK FA list is indeed super useful--would be neat to make similar databases for other areas.

Brian · · North Kingstown, RI · Joined Sep 2001 · Points: 799

Also...I remember first ascents by women discussed in "Yankee Rock and Ice."  While it may not be all inclusive of all FAs there is some good history on some of the early women climbers.  

Kristen Fiore · · Burlington, VT · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 3,379
Etha Williams wrote: 
Kris, any route is fair game! And yeah, the ADK FA list is indeed super useful--would be neat to make similar databases for other areas.

Vermont:

I Thought You Had It - Marissa Gorman
GNR - Andrea Charest
Rancid Meat - Marissa Gorman

New York:

Sammy Jo Traceyville - Marissa Gorman
Hot 'n' Stanky - Marissa Gorman

Kevin Heckeler · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,640
Gunkiemike wrote: 
MUCH more recently, Val Bachinsky put up a line at Crane Mt. ...

Thanks for thinking of her Mike.


Her prouder FA is "Kill It Before It Spreads", also at Crane.  Harder route of her two.  :)
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107811623/kill-it-before-it-spreads

Yodellaybackloon was tougher to put up, due to the prior mankiness of the corner.  I wonder how it's fairing all these years later...
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107595867/yodellaybackloon

She also had a line at Lake George (Eagle Cliff), but had been told after it was a route climbed prior just never reported.  At least it's cleaned up and documented now.
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107608527/drama-queen-aka-short-fiction

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
Post a Reply to "Routes in the northeast FA'd/developed by women"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.