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Best 5/8-10a well protected Friction Slab

Original Post
Hangdog Hank · · Leavenworth, WA · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 2,184

I suck at friction slab and am looking to build my confidence with some volume this season. What are the best routes/specific areas (more specific than just Icicle Creek, Darrington etc.) to get some good volume on moderate well protected friction slab.  Thanks!

Nick Drake · · Kent, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 651

Three o'clock rock progression, all will be well protected for the section at the grade and I'm listing what I feel has the least in the way/need for hands:
* 5.7 under the bored walk
* 5.8 magic bus (small cam on overlap to start)
* 5.8 Till broad daylight
* 5.9+ Silent running (to last pitch)
* 5.9 The cone (most run out of all listed for the grade, but not full on stances on lead bolted)

By far the closest bolted slap likely anywhere is condorphamine addiction, but it involves far more hands than pure friction.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

^^^ That’s great beta from Nick. 3 o’clock rock is definitely the place to be for moderate multipitch slab in Washington. The protection spacing is generally not quite at modern sport climbing levels, but it is pretty good by slab standards.

Nick Drake · · Kent, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 651

I edited my post after reading yours JCM, I really should clarify for those that there are bolts around the moves that are the grade. Once you're on 5.9 don't expect much around any 5.8 climbing. It's hard to bolt granite by hand!

Kyle Elliott · · Granite falls · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 1,798
Nick Drake wrote: Three o'clock rock progression, all will be well protected for the section at the grade and I'm listing what I feel has the least in the way/need for hands:
* 5.7 under the bored walk
* 5.8 magic bus (small cam on overlap to start)
* 5.8 Till broad daylight
* 5.9+ Silent running (to last pitch)
* 5.9 The cone (most run out of all listed for the grade, but not full on stances on lead bolted)

By far the closest bolted slap likely anywhere is condorphamine addiction, but it involves far more hands than pure friction.

This is a good list to get started although pitch 2 of silent running and the Kone might give you minor freakouts on the run out if you're not accustomed to slab. Better work up to those. 

Some other options (reasonably protected and mostly friction or a combination of friction and crimps)

In the icicle, Blue cheese 5.8 and cutting teeth 5.9 on Domestic dome, and yard art 5.9 on peek-a-boo. Slippin and slidin on roto wall. Canadians on horseback 5.6 on icicle buttress.

Endless bliss 5.9 on gun show at exit 38 farside.

If you're cool with run outs on 5.5 flakes and slab, double ropes, and mixed pro, training day on quartz mountain has VERY well protected 5.8-5.10a pitches after the first 3 intro pitches.

Pitch 2 of Racer x 5.10a at Index

Jake Precht · · Seattle, WA · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0
Kyle Elliott wrote:

Pitch 2 of Racer x 5.10a at Index

Maybe I climbed it wrong, but I found Racer X to be more knobs on slab than pure friction slab

Kyle Elliott · · Granite falls · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 1,798
Jake Precht wrote:

Maybe I climbed it wrong, but I found Racer X to be more knobs on slab than pure friction slab

True. Definitely more of a knob climb, but I added it last minute for a little diversity in my list. 

Curt Veldhuisen · · Bellingham, WA · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 1,363
Kyle Elliott wrote:

True. Definitely more of a knob climb, but I added it last minute for a little diversity in my list. 

Actually most Darrington routes are more knobs than friction. If you really want to improve your friction technique, I'd get on some harder routes with a top-rope or rope-gun, so you can focus on climbing more than falling. Not sure what grades you're looking for, but White Lightning (11a) at Peshastin is a good one that you can access with easier climbing.

Steve Shen · · Richland, WA · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0

Far right end of Pearly gates has two tiers of great slab climbing as well! See Milky Way, 5.10 and the nearby climbs.

Kyle Elliott · · Granite falls · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 1,798

Forgot to add, quicksilver slabs at the washington pass hairpin. 5.5 to 5.10a

Well bolted, Short, with some full on friction moves.

Tim Page · · Bend, OR · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 10

Local Boys do good, pitch 1 at Squamish for more of a test. Agree about Silent Running and Darrington. Great slabs there.

Deven Lewis · · Idaho falls · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 295

Semi final 5.10 and opening ceremonies 5.9 at the special spot in Leavenworth are pretty fun I'm working on improving my slab climbing and these really helped also last pitch of playing possum. 5.10 on clem holler is very body tension and frictiony. I also know retardant rock along the way has some fun stuff too I haven't done em yet though. P.s all these climbs require a little bit of gear but is bolt protected in the hard spots

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

In Squamish:

Topropable 5.10s at the Malamute (rap in to toprope)

Seal Cove near Murrin

AMO Wall at Shannon Falls

Slab bouldering circuit in the Grand Wall boulders

Rambles, at the lower Apron, is easy and well protected.

Other routes at the Apron once you feel more confident. One Scoop With Delicious Dimples is challenging (10c) but well bolted. 

Jason L. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 50

Condorphamine addiction. 

J Roatch · · Leavenworth, WA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 162
Jason L. wrote: Condorphamine addiction. 

Really? 3-4 pitches (if you link) and maybe a couple 5.9-10 slab moves? A fine climb for the beginner multi pitch in Leavenworth but not a good recommendation for working slab climbing.

I agree with the Clem’s Holler, special spot, and a lot of the routes in this area involve friction slab, especially the 2nd pitches of routes.
Domestic dome was a good recommendation as well. 
Peekaboo tower recommendation is good, but high amount of hiking to slab climbing, but a great route totally worth doing. Add on lawn darts for a good day and more challenge.
Hangdog Hank · · Leavenworth, WA · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 2,184

Thanks everyone for the recommendations!

Travis M · · Olympia, WA · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 0

Is rockfall still a danger on Endless Bliss?

Kyle Elliott · · Granite falls · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 1,798
Travis M wrote: Is rockfall still a danger on Endless Bliss?

Negative. Always be weary of course, since that area could see more rockfall in the future, but for now it gets climbed regularly. In fact, there is a new route that skirts just left of the rock scar.

Zach Parsons · · Centennial, CO · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 95
Travis M wrote: Is rockfall still a danger on Endless Bliss?

It's Exit 38, rockfall is a danger everywhere.

August McKinney · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 10
Kyle Elliott wrote: Forgot to add, quicksilver slabs at the washington pass hairpin. 5.5 to 5.10a

Well bolted, Short, with some full on friction moves.

Never heard of this, any more info?

Kyle Elliott · · Granite falls · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 1,798
August McKinney wrote:

Never heard of this, any more info?

You can find a mini pamphlet at goat's beard in mazama. There's several small crags just uphill from the hairpin pull off. Nothing stand out, but a few hours worth of routes up to 5.12 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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