Post Other (Not Awesome) Trad Videos Here

Lead any route with only C3s.  Leave the stupid nuts and bigger cams at home.  I wonder how many of those shit placements would have held?  And how many he would have been destroyed?

Wow.

Austin Donisan wrote: I'll voice some sympathy here. I've climbed that route and found the start kinda awkward to protect. It's a double crack on the inside, the lip is just thin flakes on both sides, and it flares open in the back. The "obvious" bomber nut placements aren't really there.

This would be a good case for knowing before you go :-)  It was pretty obvious that it opened inside, in fact I'm pretty sure several of those placements were just umbrella-ed inside the initial flare, basically poor passive nuts. I mean maybe he just jumped on it and started going only realizing the dire straits he was in after he was up to the crack?  But still a case for having a variety of options in your onsight rack.

Mark Andes wrote:

This would be a good case for knowing before you go :-)  It was pretty obvious that it opened inside, in fact I'm pretty sure several of those placements were just umbrella-ed inside the initial flare, basically poor passive nuts. I mean maybe he just jumped on it and started going only realizing the dire straits he was in after he was up to the crack?  But still a case for having a variety of options in your onsight rack.

It was so cringeworthy, no part of me thought he would send it and no part of me wanted to see him fall. 

I was just disappointed to see the chains. I was really looking forward to seeing what kind of anchor he was going to build!

F loyd wrote:

Paul L wrote:

Seriously, watching those C3 placements was anxiety inducing. 

Why do folks in these videos never know how to place a nut, but always have micro-cams??

He does know how to place nuts--so well, in fact, that his first piece is placed like a nut when in fact it is a #1 C4 cam.

And these are the kinds of people hoarding the precious C3's....

Not sure if this has been posted. Guess what the rating is. All of this guy's videos are special and I don't see why him following would be any different.

Tan B wrote:

Not sure if this has been posted. Guess what the rating is. All of this guy's videos are special and I don't see why him following would be any different.

LOL he makes slabby layback look like it's Changing Corners or something.  Too good.

Tan B wrote:

Not sure if this has been posted. Guess what the rating is. All of this guy's videos are special and I don't see why him following would be any different.

https://i.pinimg.com/originals/73/31/c8/7331c8eff76c3ee143d722b2ca4a9087.jpg

Tan B wrote:

Not sure if this has been posted. Guess what the rating is. All of this guy's videos are special and I don't see why him following would be any different.

It's easy to mock gumbies with bad technique, but I thought this thread was for learning from others?  Idk, the gear seemed fine.  Anchor situation seemed weird, but we didn't get a solid look at it.

Eric Roe wrote:

It's easy to mock gumbies with bad technique, but I thought this thread was for learning from others?  Idk, the gear seemed fine.  Anchor situation seemed weird, but we didn't get a solid look at it.

Yea I agree. Sure he isnt a crusher but I didnt see any gear issues or anything totally alarming. These guys get a pass in my book.

Eric Roe wrote:

It's easy to mock gumbies with bad technique, but I thought this thread was for learning from others?  Idk, the gear seemed fine.  Anchor situation seemed weird, but we didn't get a solid look at it.

This guy has had 3+ videos come up within the thread. The only reason the gear was fine was because he didn't place it.

Christopher Smith wrote:

LOL he makes slabby layback look like it's Changing Corners or something.  Too good.

This guy makes me want to find and repost the "Hold me tight BRO...BRO TIGHT" guy.  Maybe its the same guy.  Always sort of cracks me up to see followers screaming tight when you can see there's almost no slack in the rope.  Though I have seen times when the leader is being kinda lazy.

"Keep it tight. Keep it super tight" ... Crusher Status...
I won't knock this dude anymore, he climbs at least 5.12b. No because the routes are 5.12b per se, but because his technique turns those 5.8s into 5.12b's. Anyone having that much trouble and still climbing gets my kudos.

Tan B wrote:

Not sure if this has been posted. Guess what the rating is. All of this guy's videos are special and I don't see why him following would be any different.

Why does it seem like everyone on this thread has the same rope?

Reading comprehension on thread title.

There's nothing wrong with this one.  The leader chose to run it out and extend placements maybe more than some of us would, but that's the leaders prerogative.  

I agree with Zoso. I couldn't get a good look at his .75 and 1, but they looked undercammed from my pov. Either way, this looked well below his grade and he had a good time.

F loyd wrote:

Every time he clips

https://youtu.be/zF9USNiV6Jw