Favorite gym only shoe for old dudes.

cragmantoo wrote:

That is not a gym shoe

Can you get pennyloafers with C4?

master gumby wrote:

That is not a gym shoe

Get 'em resoled with C4. Wear them with black socks and garters...

Nick Henscheid wrote: I have really enjoyed the new Black Diamond shoes. I’ve had the Momentums for about 6 months and they’ve been the most comfortable and durable gym shoe I’ve even owned, and I’ve used a wide range of others from Moccs to Anasazis to Muiras and Testarossas. I have no trouble sending hard routes in them, either, they perform very well. If they fit, try em!

Did you size the Momentums the same as your street shoe?

gym shoes = worn out outdoor shoes
spending money on shoes just for the gym seems alien to me

The New Balance Morticia is definitely good after the first resole. 

KurtP wrote: Im basically full time in the gym with my kids these days. looking for a shoe for a mix of boulder and sport climbing. at this point...comfort sort of trumps performance for me. Whatcha liking these days?

I'm 52 and my go to shoe for gym sessions is the La Sportiva Tarantulace. I get them one size smaller than my regular show size and after a few sessions they will stretch just enough to make them very comfortable for wearing during your entire session. They are also just aggressive enough for the tough stuff.  

Buck Rio wrote: My most recent favorites are [...] the 5.10 VCR (the tan ones). 

I really like the 5.10 Betamax. Seriously though, I think the 5.10 VCS are my fave gym shoe. Usually I just use whatever shoe no longer sparks joy in my life, or whatever I am trying to break in.

Ryan Pfleger wrote:

I really like the 5.10 Betamax. Seriously though, I think the 5.10 VCS are my fave gym shoe. Usually I just use whatever shoe no longer sparks joy in my life, or whatever I am trying to break in.

I have a serious OCD thing going with shoes. The first step is admitting I have a problem   

But right now I ONLY have 12 pairs, I have had as many as 31...but if they hurt my feet, I won't wear them.

the chinese rubber on Tarantulas and Oxygyms is garbage

+1 for older shoes being gym shoes. You should be used to how every type of hold or movement feels in the position your foot would be in normally. Edges are ridiculously huge, might as well use the softest, least supportive thing you can unless you're at the upper end of the V scale or your gym somehow sets micro edges on lead routes.

Karl Walters wrote: +1 for older shoes being gym shoes. You should be used to how every type of hold or movement feels in the position your foot would be in normally. Edges are ridiculously huge, might as well use the softest, least supportive thing you can unless you're at the upper end of the V scale or your gym somehow sets micro edges on lead routes.

...yours doesn't?

Some of the 13s and stuff above v8 gets small but I don’t know why people wanna use stuff beginner shoes as gym shoes. Yah they’re comfortable, but they’re often super insensitive and while that’s fine, you build zero ability to feel holds, smear/smedge, and generally once you go outside arent used to actually feeling out footholds.

John Clark wrote: The New Balance Morticia is definitely good after the first resole. 

I'm waiting for the Gomez model next year, should be super stylish.

Noah Yetter wrote: the chinese rubber on Tarantulas and Oxygyms is garbage

Yeah I couldn’t get my oxygyms to stick to anything. I didn’t figure there would be that much of a difference in the rubber but I was shocked. Made for durability, not stickiness. 

DaveBaker wrote: Comfort? Mythos.

What he said. ^