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Solo TR - Rumbling Blad or near Asheville?

Original Post
Andy W · · Ft Collins · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 41

Are there any anchors at Rumbling Bald accessible from the top? Or any other winter crags near Asheville that fit the bill? I have two days off in town but can't seem to line up a partner, so looking to solo TR.

Or if you know someone available to climb Feb 4/5, hit me up - www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/116362544

nbrown · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 8,357

Yes, what type of route and how hard are you looking for?

Andy W · · Ft Collins · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 41

anything up to hard 10s. equipped for trad anchors. greatly enjoy granite cracks, but will climb anything that's not choss. thanks!

nbrown · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 8,357

NC isn't exactly known for cracks but there are a few really good ones. Unfortunately, most cracks at Rumbly have to be led first (Cereal Buttress area is really good but not TR accessible).

  • "Zydago" (short 5.10 flake and face) fits the bill and there is also "Finishing School Blues" just to the right. It's harder than what you're looking for but a good one. These are on the right side of the Screamweaver area. Just walk around the wall on the right side and back left onto the ledge.

  • The Flakeview area is pretty accessible as well. "Fine Line"  is a good thin face and there are a couple others as well. Just walk around the wall on the left to gain the ledge above.

  • With a little more effort you could go up to the Lakeview area and walk/scramble way around the right side to set up a TR. It's a very good line but not the easiest to get to.

If you're in NC and find a partner consider checking out Looking Glass, Cedar Rock, Laurel Knob, or Whiteside Mtn. If it warms up, Shortoff in Linville is amazing as well. All very worthwhile destinations that are relatively close to Asheville.

Andy W · · Ft Collins · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 41

Flakeview area seems good with a high concentration of long moderates. Any other good top accessible cliffs you know of in the area? Looking Glass is definitely on the list if I can find a partner. Thanks for the info!

nbrown · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 8,357

No problem. I live in CO nowadays (looks like we climb in a lot of the same places) but I lived in the Asheville area for a long time. NC has some of the best backwater climbing in the country so I'm happy to help.

Flakeview area is okay. Really only a pitch in length, easy topouts notwithstanding. You can easily climb a pitch or two in each of the areas I mentioned on the same day if you want. While the cliff line can be very confusing, the areas aren't very far apart.

Almost all of the major crags in that part of the state are too big for easy top access. One exception might be the main wall at Cedar Rock. While not super easy to do, you can hike around the left side (there's a trail going up the slab to other areas) to gain the top and rap down to access the crux pitches. The main wall at Cedar has impeccable slab and face climbing! Almost all routes have bolt anchors so rapping down is not too bad -- the hardest part is figuring out where you're at (on top) and getting to the first set of anchors.

Good luck and feel free to give me a shout if you have any specific questions.

Russ Keane · · Salt Lake · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 437

I would never feign to be more insightful than Nathan (an expert in WNC climbing), but I will say that the notion of figuring out how/where to find those top anchor locations sounds daunting.   Your first time at Rumbling Bald is confusing enough, to find anything, let alone figure out wacky ways to the tops of cliff faces and if you are alone you would have a hard time getting aligned correctly above your intended climb.  At a place like Cedar this could take all day.  Screamweaver, the first mentioned, is the most realistic and those two climbs are awesome.  Could be done.   I think the issue you are having Andy, is that it's kind of impossible to know the weather that far in advance.  Kind of pointless to make climbing arrangements when the whole thing is sun/temperature dependent.   A partner could come thru last minute.   Maybe me!  I live in Asheville and can often climb during the week.  Sorry to hear you're planning the solo effort; that sounds like a bum deal.  

Brie Abram · · Celo, NC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 493

Your best chance of finding a partner is to chime in on the Western Carolina Climbing Association page on Facebook

Jared Chrysostom · · Clemson, SC · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 5

What day(s) are you looking to climb? I will be in NC this Sunday (2/3) and my planned partner is notoriously flaky.

Andy W · · Ft Collins · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 41

Nathan - thanks for all the info!
Russ - Yes I realize it's hard for climbers to make commitments very far out (even in good weather). I had one partner lined up but (un)fortunately is back at work (furloughed). I'm leaving tomorrow and trying to consider what gear is worth packing for 1-2 days of climbing on a 20 day trip. Having someone tentatively commit pending weather would help narrow that down. Let me know if you or someone you know ends up available (weather pending of course).
Brian - thanks for the redirect, I've requested to be added.
Jared - I get into town around noon on Sunday and am open Mon and Tue (Feb 4 & 5).

Brian Payst · · Carrboro,NC · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 10

You could also just pack shoes and a chalk bag and go bouldering at Rumbling Bald. Less stuff, easier to figure out, etc. Throw in a harness in case you get lucky and can pick up a partner. That’s kind of my standard “hoping to climb on this trip” package. 

Jared Chrysostom · · Clemson, SC · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 5

Dang, we'll miss each other by about half a day.

Maybe consider Crowders? It won't be Crowded Mountain on a Monday or Tuesday, and there are several options for TR'ing with access to anchors from above. It's a bit of a drive from Asheville but the approach is short and you can do several good routes without much relocation time in between. The Practice Wall area has two 5.9's which share an anchor (Heady Areteddy and Playground), with a 5.10 (The Wall) about 40' away on another anchor. The backside of David's Castle has two 5.9's and two 5.8's with bolted anchors, and I'm pretty sure you can climb two routes from each anchor. Both areas are easy to access from above.

Andy W · · Ft Collins · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 41

Brian - I always have shoes and harness for gyms. Boulder is a decent idea but I'm not much into the risks of without pads. Would rather pack a rope and some gear if I can get outside.
Jared - Thanks for the ideas on Crowders. Bummer to just miss each other. Cheers!

Amy Zakerski · · Asheville, NC · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 0

Hey Andy! There are some great crack climbs at rumbling bald that I'm familiar with and I've also got the guide book. I'd be happy join you on Monday the 4th! But I wouldn't be able to do Tuesday. If you're interested let me know and I'd be happy to exchange numbers or FB message. If not, enjoy and be safe!
Also I'm New Hampshire for the week and I'll be ice climbing most of the day but you can reach me in the evenings. 

Andy W · · Ft Collins · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 41

Amy, it'd be great to climb with you. I just send you my number via pm.

Mike R · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 2,983

Eagle Rock is great for solo TR. 45 mins from Asheville. 5 mins you’ll have a TR rig.   This area was newly opened by Carolina Climbers Coalition and Chimney Rock.   check page on MP or CCC site for parking details.  Requires free permit 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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