Thoughts on the new 5.10 Aleon?

I know these shoes aren't out yet (February) but I'm pretty excited for them!
I'm also curious on the sizing and how they will compare, fit wise, to hiangles. Has anyone tried a demo or prototype pair? Anyone also hyped for that sleek red and black? 

I hope they are sized like the Quantum VCS since that fits my foot perfectly 1 size down from SS.

Doug Chism wrote: I hope they are sized like the Quantum VCS since that fits my foot perfectly 1 size down from SS.

The lasts do look similar! Hopefully not as stiff though. 

Yeah, it looks cool.  Not sure exactly where it will fit between HiAngles, Teams, etc...I think the biggest difference will be the fit from the new last (maybe it’ll fit people who can’t normally wear Five Ten?).

Ted Pinson wrote: Yeah, it looks cool.  Not sure exactly where it will fit between HiAngles, Teams, etc...I think the biggest difference will be the fit from the new last (maybe it’ll fit people who can’t normally wear Five Ten?).

My thoughts exactly. Looks wider in the midfoot, similar to the Skwama or Instinct vs..

I've been told it is almost the same fit as Hiangle, but the new upper and tongue make it easier to get into/more comfortable from day 1 and the heel cup is better.  This person spent quite a bit of time climbing in them over a few months as well as in the North Face prototypes and a few other protos from BD and said to him they weren't all that overwhelming.  He has climbed a lot in most major brands and personally uses Skwamas, Miuras, and Dragos.

Karl Walters wrote: I've been told it is almost the same fit as Hiangle, but the new upper and tongue make it easier to get into/more comfortable from day 1 and the heel cup is better.  This person spent quite a bit of time climbing in them over a few months as well as in the North Face prototypes and a few other protos from BD and said to him they weren't all that overwhelming.  He has climbed a lot in most major brands and personally uses Skwamas, Miuras, and Dragos.

Thanks for the insight!

Karl Walters wrote: I've been told it is almost the same fit as Hiangle, but the new upper and tongue make it easier to get into/more comfortable from day 1 and the heel cup is better.  This person spent quite a bit of time climbing in them over a few months as well as in the North Face prototypes and a few other protos from BD and said to him they weren't all that overwhelming.  He has climbed a lot in most major brands and personally uses Skwamas, Miuras, and Dragos.

Wow North Face is getting into the shoe game!? Feels pretty crowded already...

How did your buddy manage to get his hands on all these prototypes? 

A few decades of climbing and working at gyms in a management and coaching function.

I haven't seen the NF shoes in a long time. They looked like better made Hiangles and I honestly thought they were a new one. He was on a pretty hush hush NDA about them and I only found out they were NF because there was a sample tag inside the shoe.

I don't think the market is that crowded. You really have La Sportiva, Scarpa, and whatever is left of Five Ten as the big brands, then several smaller European or American brands with less heritage. Overall the materials used don't seem anywhere near the level you see on almost any other athletic shoe same with closures or fit. I bet there is some improvements to be made in just those areas alone at least in terms of comfort and power transfer. If more big companies bring better tech to market then it's awesome.  Unfortunately from what I've seen Black Diamond's entry wasn't great except for the beginner gym shoe market and their high end shoes have been a complete dud.

I think that’s the idea behind new Five Ten shoes like the Aleon, honestly.  They’re using shoe tech from Adidas’ main lines to (hopefully) make better climbing shoes.

I think I'll have some thoughts when I can actually climb on them. Looking cool only goes so far with climbing

I mean the bar is low. All the Five Ten bro-deal people I know generally rag on their Hiangles and Teams compared to other shoes they pro deal, but they're still the cheapest. It would be sweet to see them on top again. The Unparallel shoes just weren't a step up or good comparison

Disclaimer: this is all my opinion based off my experience, hopefully I don't "rubbb"ber anyone the wrong way. See what I did there?? Anways, Surprised to hear people dogging the hi angles and teams.

 Using the hiangles on the east coast sandstone (polised nuttall to the soaked mossy sandy corbin to my personal favorite in TN) has only reiterated my love for the stealth rubber...I have also heard great things on people using teams if they fit their foot. Sportivas fit my feet more snug in a good way depending on the shoe itself. I also use vibram on all my boots, its great rubber.

However I firmly believe (as a bigger climber-6,7 210 lbs) that the stealth takes the cake. Beyond stoked to buy the new lineup of shoes (saving up as we type). I think the only ones I won't work into the budget will be the Velcro dragons as...why not just try the new aleons instead? They look like a better geometry setup compared to the hiangles (which are some of my faves), with a better heel. The difference in industry deal discounts between brands is roughly 10 %, depending on where you work.

Climbing shoes may literally save your life in certain outdoor scenarios right? That is an extreme way of putting it. But it holds true in many alpine situations/long runouts on natural gear. Trusting the rubber is of utmost importance to stay focused on the actual climbing. If those bromosapiens are buying 5.10 to save literally 10-30 dollars...well to me that just doesn't make sense if their foot fits better elsewhere (aka bad enough to rag on them). We are talking (even on minimum wage) 2-4 extra hours of working your job that can elevate your trust between shoes and allow you to flow better/stay focused. So unless they solely pull plastic (which is fine), then maybe spending the time/effort and slightly more money to find the "right" boot is well worth it. I have definitely seen it in the gym with similar scenarios with my friends... people buy the cheapest performance shoe they can buy, that may not fit them as good as say a scarpa, sportive or whatever brand works best (a lot of times because their buddies have them). Inadvertently talking down on a shoe that other people love due to all those little reasons any of us like a shoe.

 Although trying shoes on first should be a priority, its hard to stare away from those internet/industry discounts. Just keep in mind that discounted purchases can, and may lead to discounted results. Hope everyone has a safe and rockin spring outdoor season! Five ten said February BTW!?!?! Where all them shoes be!?!?

Cheers

TV

Tim, in the other thread, the expected date of release is now 8/11/19 mountainproject.com/forum/t…

Looks like they're available now

​https://www.adidasoutdoor.com/five-ten-aleon-mens-climbing-shoe/BC0861.html​​​

has anyone actually worn a pair or are we in the sofa-review stage?
what that said, it looks like the heel sucks, as per usual.  

As much as i love Fred, i have never been able to emulate his foot shape.

I've been told the heel feels amazing and secure! My friends are waiting to fully break them in before any other comments. 

The Dragon is my current favorite heel, so I’ve had good luck with Fred’s designs.  Will definitely check them out.

I should have a pair showing up tomorrow night according to FedEx. Anyone want an 'unboxing' video, lol. 

Doug Chism wrote: I should have a pair showing up tomorrow night according to FedEx. Anyone want an 'unboxing' video, lol. 

No

Mine come today, but I'm injured soooo....

The Five Ten heel works fairly well for me, but the toebox and other parts of the shoe often do not.  I love the Skwama, but hate it's lack of durability and these have a similar shape and properties so if they are even marginally close in terms of fit/feel they will be a winnner.