Recommendations for France
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Greetings, humans. |
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I'm writing this as I go along so sorry about the waffle... It's relatively high up (1,500m) so stays cool even when it's hot down in the valleys. Weather can be fickle in that area though (that's why it's green after all). Quiet. Good granite singlepitch at Saint-Sauves that's so overhanging you can climb when it's raining (mostly 7a and up). There are other smaller crags here and there, either granite, gneiss, basalt... Guidebook. -Gorges du Tarn and Gorges de la Jonte: the Jonte has stunning multipitch on wonderful pockety limestone but it all faces south so tends to be hot by noon. The Tarn is mostly single pitch, long pocket-pulling routes, easy to find shaded of sunny areas. Very little under 6b, most routes are in the 7s and 8s. You're also guaranteed to see griffon vultures which is cool. The place is also renowned for its kayaking (though it tends to be extremely busy in summer). Current guidebooks for the Tarn and the Jonte. As for the southeast proper, Ailefroide is an obvious choice: granite sport (single and multipitch) and bouldering in a beautiful valley with a cheap campground where you often don't need to take your car to go climbing. June is the very beginning of the high season so it's still very quiet. I suggest getting the Briançon climbs guidebook, you'll find it it everywhere (e.g. Approach Outdoor in Briançon, maybe the Bureau des guides des Ecrins in Vallouise/Saint-Vincent). The Ailefroide bouldering guidebook was a bit trickier to find but we eventually found it at the Bureau des guides I think (?). They'll have it at any Vieux campeur as well and hopefully at Approach too. Verdon is also not to be missed, the south-facing walls will be hot and thunderstorms can be an issue, but if you start early and/or choose more shaded walls (of which there are plenty) you'll be fine. You'll need 2x50m ropes though. There's also single pitch areas, but I'm under the impression that they mostly face south (so will be too hot) or, when they don't, have nothing easier than 7a (see La Ramirole, Hulk, etc.). Guidebook (you'll find it easily at La-Palud-sur-Verdon). I recommend camping at La ferme de Bourras, quieter as it's out of town and the owner is quite a character! I understand Céüse offers the best single pitch climbing in France at this time of year (it's pretty high up, 1,800m?) but haven't been, I'm sure others will fill you in. There's both a paper and a (paying) online guidebook. The north face of Saint-Léger du Ventoux might be another option but I haven't been either. Most other classic single-pitch venues will be hot in June (Buoux, Orpierre etc). Let me know if you have specific questions or need more advice! |





