ISO: stalwart soul to repeat Imago Invisibiliae on the SR

slevin wrote: Any well-travelled climber who has also climbed a lot in the Black realizes the special nature of the climber experience here. There are few restrictive rules, little LEO presence, friendly rangers (and on the NRim they are mostly climbers), a free and unregulated inner-canyon pass system, an inexpensive campground with (at times) water and wood supplied (remember your wood $ donations!), fixed ropes in the Cruise gully set-up and maintained by the rangers, and a laidback mellow vibe. The climbing "experience" is basically unchanged since I first visited many decades ago, but I'm sure the pioneers from the 50s & 60s could say the same thing. It's really quite a unique place. If only the climbing was better!!

I think it is inevitable that things are going to change in the future if the canyon continues to attract newer climbers. We've all been there at times when we were the only climbers in the NRim CG, and it's a cool experience in this day and age to find such a big place deserted. Personally, it makes me feel special when that happens, like I'm the luckiest climber in the world. It's a feeling that I want to defend, even if I'm a mere Front Range visitor.

This last season (2018) is the first time ever that I've arrived at the NRim CG mid-week to find the place packed-to-the-ceiling with climbers. (It happened twice!) Man was that a buzz kill. The place (especially the CG) has a really low carrying capacity, and just can't hold that many people. So simply from sheer numbers things are going to change in the future. It's gonna be a bummer. And you know what, climbers can do everything in the book to maintain a low-profile LNT existence there (unfortunately many don't) and things are still going to change.

So the less we talk about and advertise the Black, the slower that process is going to occur. I cringe when I see the latest article about the Black in the climbing mags, tooting the place as the latest and greatest, must-do area to check off on your climbing travels. (I've been part of that in the past, when things were a little quieter, and I regret it.) The best that all of us can do is behave well, and keep the Black-spraying off the internet as much as possible. That's my opinion only.

In the MP comments for the Black Canyon intro section is this quote, from Rob Dillon, which has always hit a chord with me. It's something we should all keep in mind when contemplating our actions:

“The NPS collar only ratchets one way. If things appear unruly to the Black Canyon brass, or their bosses, it's only going to get stricter. Raise your hand if you want to see this happen.”

-Steve Levin

Beautifully communicated. This whole black canyon ordeal and the ensuing consequences should serve as a learning experience to myself, OP, and the climbing community as a whole. Thank you to the people who have politely called foul and given a better plan of attack that will better protect our recreational interests. Thank you to the people who will modify the way they use and talk about our beloved climbing areas! 

Cheers.

s.price wrote:

Fair enough. But what does smoking pot have to do with it?

Pot helps make the intense pain brought on by my chemo treatments
manageable.
After trying every anti seizure medicine available THC is the only one to stop my wife's epilepsy episodes. 

Pot has been shown to help pain. 

I can’t say I’ve heard of THC helping, but I know CBD oil has been shown to help epilepsy. 
I’ve never seen a study that shows it helps short term memory, attention span or decision making capabilities. 
While I’m not anti -pot by any means, I can’t help but feel like you’re comparing apples to oranges here. 

cannabis with THC also can have CBD in it

cannabis without THC is now legal federally [ .03% or less]

pot is illegal in the park

mediocre wrote:

Pot has been shown to help pain. 

I can’t say I’ve heard of THC helping, but I know CBD oil has been shown to help epilepsy. 
I’ve never seen a study that shows it helps short term memory, attention span or decision making capabilities. 
While I’m not anti -pot by any means, I can’t help but feel like you’re comparing apples to oranges here. 

Pretty sure THC is the compound that increases appetite, and can therefore be used to treat nausea and undereating caused by chemo. CBD works as a painkiller, anti inflammatory drug.... I think... I only use it for fun and I’m a little high right now, so I could be wrong.

I think focusing on Fritz’s pot use is dumb though and just another example of how overboard and overly dramatic the criticism leveled at him has been. Especially after he has paid a fine, cleaned up his mess, and vowed to not do this again- all of which is now on the internet along with his initial report and all your criticism. Who the hell is going to look at this mess and go, “That’s a great idea Fritz had! I think I’ll try it too!!”?

Marcelo F wrote:

Fritz... vowed to not do this again-

Can you point me to where he says this?

Andy W wrote:

Can you point me to where he says this?

Different thread, but:

“Thanks, man! It is indeed Wilderness, and as I learned, merely possessing a bike in any state of assembly is prohibited. Mea culpa. I won't do it again.”

Marcelo F wrote:

Different thread, but:

“Thanks, man! It is indeed Wilderness, and as I learned, merely possessing a bike in any state of assembly is prohibited. Mea culpa. I won't do it again.”

Awesome, thank you. I think that is deserving to be in this thread as well.

Here’s the important question: who was Elsa? Or who was Elsa pretending to be?

I have followed this somewhat comedic thread, which has gone on way too long, and has left me wondering, what is the deal with the goats?

s.price wrote:

Fair enough. But what does smoking pot have to do with it?

Pot helps make the intense pain brought on by my chemo treatments
manageable.
After trying every anti seizure medicine available CBD is the only one to stop my wife's epilepsy episodes.

Edited because I mistakenly typed THC instead of CBD

My wife has breast cancer so I get it. I wish you all the best for 2019, and hope to catch up with you soon.

..and once something like this happens to you in life it puts things in perspective (that's for you nasty people you know who you are).

Kevinmurray wrote: I have followed this somewhat comedic thread, which has gone on way too long, and has left me wondering, what is the deal with the goats?

Yeah, the goats! WTF

Them gotes are for Fritz.  Everbody was give him such a hard time about getting his fancy bike stuk down inthat there blaker canyon.

Imean... the law already got em.

Carolina wrote: Them gotes are for Fritz.  Everbody was give him such a hard time about getting his fancy bike stuk down inthat there blaker canyon.

Imean... the law already got em.

Yeah I've followed this long enough Fritz you're an ass, and I eat your goatz!

Yup, goats are considered dinner  in many parts of the world and Fritz does seem to have an ego that precedes him. Oops that might start name calling and banishment.

Old lady H wrote: Name calling? Fine.You've got it. Those of you who persist in thinking unkindness is cute or funny....are of an equine species, just my opinion.

Oh wait, I'm Jewish. Maybe that unkosher species I want nothing to do with?

THIS IS CRUEL.

MP, you have pushed good people out of this site before, and seem determined, some of you, to do so again. I've talked to a great many of you, on and off of here. Your choices matter.

You can choose to treat people like the potential friends and climbing partners we all hope for...or not. I view every single one of you, trolls included, as having that potential. And ya know what? A whole bunch of you are now friends, people I care about and support.

Yes. Including Fritz.

But also those who have been banned. People go through all kinds of shit in their lives. I dunno about the rest of you, but climbing is huge for me. Even more so?

Climbers. This is my family, for the most part.

Kick me off if you wish, Nick. I've met my best friends here...but so what.

H.

Fritz put his TR out there for the express purpose of getting attention. In return he got attention. You can’t expect it to be all positive. In addition, it seems like Fritz has thick skin—almost goat-like skin you could say.

Old lady H wrote: Name calling? Fine.You've got it. Those of you who persist in thinking unkindness is cute or funny....are of an equine species, just my opinion.

Oh wait, I'm Jewish. Maybe that unkosher species I want nothing to do with?

THIS IS CRUEL.

MP, you have pushed good people out of this site before, and seem determined, some of you, to do so again. I've talked to a great many of you, on and off of here. Your choices matter.

You can choose to treat people like the potential friends and climbing partners we all hope for...or not. I view every single one of you, trolls included, as having that potential. And ya know what? A whole bunch of you are now friends, people I care about and support.

Yes. Including Fritz.

But also those who have been banned. People go through all kinds of shit in their lives. I dunno about the rest of you, but climbing is huge for me. Even more so?

Climbers. This is my family, for the most part.

Kick me off if you wish, Nick. I've met my best friends here...but so what.

H.

Garble garble?

Jaren Watson wrote:

One might say it’s unnecessary to handle him with kid gloves.

You're probably such an awesome teacher (meant with all sincerity)

At the suggestion of a close friend on MP, I took a few days off from this jihad. I also had a close call cleaning a new route on rope solo and gained some valuable perspective, enumerated below:

1) Though uninentional, what I did was wrong and I would neither recommend nor repeat it. See my prologue from Day 2: 

2) I have many personal shortcomings. Please be patient with me as I attempt to turn my life around.

3) I appreciate the private interactions that I've had on this topic with many MP users. Of special note include Andy for being willing to participate in a frank yet civil exchange of ideas, OLH for calling me on my hubris and Aleks for offering helpful rigging tips for bike-hauling. If my tone has offended anyone, please forgive me.

4) Opehlia suffered significant structural damage and has been retired to town-cruiser duty. The financial impact of this trip would be akin to someone bailing off of the Nose and losing four sets of cams and two ropes. I think it's safe to say that no one is going to attempt a repeat. In fact, the only other bikepacker who possesses the requisite hardskills and pathetophilia neessary for an expedition of this magnitude actually declined to accompany me on the original trip. (EDIT: What I mean by that is that is that in order to pull off a repeat of this route, which I don’t recommend, you need to know rope systems and be willing to slog up a 2000’gully at a rate of 30 feet per every ten minutes. And you need to be willing to absolutely trash your bike. I don’t know of anyone who fits all three criteria except maybe Doom. 

5) I would be more than happy to continue this discussion over my signature Bomber Breakfast Burritos at Sendero's anytime in the next two weeks. I'm in the brown Honda Fit.

6) If anyone wants to get the second ascent on "Image of the Invisible," be sure to take the lower-angled rap line that's skiier's right of the overlook. Rapping off the overlook itself into the ampitheater pitch is more direct but requires some traversing that puts you at risk for a pendulum.


7) Re: gotez ... in happier days, I lived on a commune outside Montrose and raised Boers. BLEAT!

“In fact, the only other bikepacker who possesses the requisite hardskills and pathetophilia neessary for an expedition of this magnitude actually declined”
Lol I know several people with the requisite hard skills  to complete this route that live on the western slope.   There are multiple top tier multi sport self propelled adventure style aficionados out there.   Then again,  they don’t smoke weed so they’re probably not hard-core enough to hang with you.