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5.15 climbers

Steven Sheets · · Livermore, CA · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 30
John RB wrote: Interestingly, the women are closing fast: Margot Hayes has climbed 5.15a (a couple of routes now) and Angy Eiter 5.15b.  Only four men have climbed 5.15c, and one of them has climbed 5.15d.  The gender-gap in climbing is extremely small now, and I predict will completely disappear in the next 10 years. 

I'm not sure, I bet it will look like the 10% performance difference you see across a wide range of sports. The depth of talent is much more skewed towards men as well. My observation is that for every V8 woman boulderer at my gym there are a dozen men at that level.

Kaner · · Eagle · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 2,260
John RB wrote: Interestingly, the women are closing fast: Margot Hayes has climbed 5.15a (a couple of routes now) and Angy Eiter 5.15b.  Only four men have climbed 5.15c, and one of them has climbed 5.15d.  The gender-gap in climbing is extremely small now, and I predict will completely disappear in the next 10 years. 

Climbing's gender gap has been very narrow for a long time.  Lynn Hill, Beth Rodden, Steph Davis - lots of bold hard routes freed by female crushers.  That being said...in general...men are bigger faster stronger at the elite level than women (ducks for cover).  Elite women in their disciplines, including climbing, would kick my ass and any other average guy, but at the highest end...it is a physiological fact that men are bigger faster stronger.  Those attributes don't always apply to the world's hardest rock climbs.

Steven Sheets · · Livermore, CA · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 30

Also, to the OP's question:
http://escalade9.wifeo.com/par-cotation.php
This list is pretty good data on who's climbed 5.15 and up.

Karl Walters · · San Diego · Joined May 2017 · Points: 106

Lol that no one actually clicked on Brad G's profile.

master gumby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 262
John RB wrote: Interestingly, the women are closing fast: Margot Hayes has climbed 5.15a (a couple of routes now) and Angy Eiter 5.15b.  Only four men have climbed 5.15c, and one of them has climbed 5.15d.  The gender-gap in climbing is extremely small now, and I predict will completely disappear in the next 10 years. 

Who mentioned anything about a gender gap in this thread? Or in general. Didnt Lynn hill free the nose first? 

John Clark · · BLC · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,408
master gumby wrote:

Who mentioned anything about a gender gap in this thread? Or in general. Didnt Lynn hill free the nose first? 

And then the route sat unrepeated for 11 years.

John RB · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 194
John Clark wrote:

And then the route sat unrepeated for 11 years.

Poor Scotty Burk.

Jer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 26
Karl Walters wrote: Lol that no one actually clicked on Brad G's profile.

Are you saying it's an imposter?

master gumby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 262
John Clark wrote:

And then the route sat unrepeated for 11 years.

Or the home girl Pamela who crushes offwidths and is gnarlier and tougher than all of us scallywags on here.

Karl Walters · · San Diego · Joined May 2017 · Points: 106
Jer wrote:

Are you saying it's an imposter?

The contrary- someone who knows more about the subject than probably any of us, especially WRT to trad/sport crossover and then people start getting all huffy bout his response.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252
Brad G wrote:

Can or have? Anyone who’s climbed 5.15 can send the worlds hardest trad route within a few days of effort. Many of them within a few tries. There’s 14c/d trad in NorCal and Norway. It would be rad to see how quick those routes could be taken down by the worlds strongest sport climbers. 

Wtf do YOU know about hard trad climbing??

;)
Eric Carlos · · Soddy Daisy, TN · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 141
Ted Pinson wrote:

Wtf do YOU know about hard trad climbing??

;)

Brad Gobright?

Rock Climber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 309
Ted Pinson wrote:

Wtf do YOU know about hard trad climbing??

;)

Brad G -
Fairy Tales Moab Area > Indian Creek > Pistol Whipped   5.13- Trad Apr 3, 2018 · Lead. Onsight

Ted Pinson-
Cheaper Than a Movie Red River Gorge > Pendergrass-Mur… > Chica Bonita Wall     5.8 Trad Sep 2, 2018 · Lead / Fell/Hung.

Brad G > Ted Pinson

Eric Carlos · · Soddy Daisy, TN · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 141
Ska Ggs wrote:

Brad G -
Fairy Tales Moab Area > Indian Creek > Pistol Whipped   5.13- Trad Apr 3, 2018 · Lead. Onsight

Ted Pinson-
Cheaper Than a Movie Red River Gorge > Pendergrass-Mur… > Chica Bonita Wall     5.8 Trad Sep 2, 2018 · Lead / Fell/Hung.

Brad G > Ted Pinson 

In all fairness, and in the interest of full disclosure, one of the above routes is soft and the other sandbagged.  You are comparing apples to oranges.  

Creed Archibald · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,026
Eric Carlos wrote:

In all fairness, and in the interest of full disclosure, one of the above routes is soft and the other sandbagged.  You are comparing apples to oranges.  

In all fairness, I'm pretty sure Ted was being sarcastic. 

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610
John Clark wrote:

And then the route sat unrepeated for 11 years.

And then a 14 year old sent it. Time for a downgrade?

John Clark · · BLC · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,408
Tradiban wrote:

And then a 14 year old sent it. Time for a downgrade?

must be a tiny finger thing ;)

Time for more piton only ascents?

Eric Carlos · · Soddy Daisy, TN · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 141
C Archibolt wrote:

In all fairness, I'm pretty sure Ted was being sarcastic. 

In all fairness, I'm pretty sure I was also.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,093
John RB wrote: Interestingly, the women are closing fast: Margot Hayes has climbed 5.15a (a couple of routes now) and Angy Eiter 5.15b.  Only four men have climbed 5.15c, and one of them has climbed 5.15d.  The gender-gap in climbing is extremely small now, and I predict will completely disappear in the next 10 years. 

so the gap is currently 2 letter grades.  when sharma sent biographe, a long time ago, josune was sending 14c - so essentially a gap of 2 letter grades.  are you talking in a non-euclidian context?

master gumby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 262
slim wrote:

so the gap is currently 2 letter grades.  when sharma sent biographe, a long time ago, josune was sending 14c - so essentially a gap of 2 letter grades.  are you talking in a non-euclidian context?

Beth Roden sends meltdown. Carlo Traversi sends meltdown. = a gap of 0 letter grades.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Sport Climbing
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