Found Dune at Crow Hill bolted
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Went out to Crow Hill today with the intention of trying Dune and was disheartened to find it with several shiny new bolts. There was an additional bolt without hanger (off to the left of where the route traverses a bit) and higher up one bolt was badly placed (not perpendicular to the rock surface). I wonder if it was a community decision to (re)bolt it or was it one individual? |
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This was discussed at great length a few years ago: |
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Ok thanks for the link. |
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I led it last year and it was great, there were a few bolts, but I definitely had to place gear. It was originally a sport route and was chopped by a guy that couldn't have climbed it. It's a great route and I wouldn't hesitate to get on it as it is. There are plenty of R/X rated routes out in the hills of New England that never had fixed pro. Go do Stage Fright, same rating, no fixed gear or bolts to get in the way. |
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not looking to stir up any old controversy - i heard about dune not long ago and i was just surprised (and disappointed, tbh) to see the bolts the other day so I thought i'd ask out of curiosity. (stage fright i've done.) |
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No controversy... It was just originally done as a bolted route, and it's certainly easy enough to skip the bolts! |
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If it bums you out so much just go free soloing. works every time. |
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Bryan Gilmore wrote: No controversy... It was just originally done as a bolted route, and it's certainly easy enough to skip the bolts! It was ORIGINALLY done as an aid climb - to be pedantic. More to the point it was probably lead as a free climb more times after the bolts were chopped then when they were there (first round) - although some of those leads involved preplaced gear - grey area. Who cares? Create your own adventure. Just realize that you aren't fooling anyone when you say "Just don't clip them" |
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Eric Engberg wrote: What? Aid climbing doesn't count. |
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Bryan Gilmore wrote: No controversy... It was just originally done as a bolted route, and it's certainly easy enough to skip the bolts! No controversy... just another lap around the mindless retrobolting track... |




