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Best Classic Moderate Trad/Sport Routes in Boulder/Denver?

Original Post
David R · · Mesa, AZ · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 15

Making my way to Boulder/Denver area for the first time tomorrow and staying for two weeks, was curious on any beta for the best classic moderate climbs that must be hit! I lead trad comfortably at 5.9 in CA locations (josh, Tahquitz, Yosemite, high sierra, ...) but would take it down a notch for a new area. Can sport upper 5.10. Tall stuff is definitely a plus!!! I'm stoked would love to hear your thoughts?

Tradgic Yogurt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 55

Clear Creek is dominantly sport, there's not so much trad in that canyon. It hosts the Canal Zone area, which I like the climbing in, but it is might be chilly since north-facing. More south-facing walls with fun climbing include Capitalist and stuff off the Catslab parking area. Best multi in the canyon for the range you mentioned is probably Playin' Hooky, super pleasant climbing.

Boulder Canyon, you could go check out Animal World or the Riviera for south-facing. If cold doesn't both you, highly highly recommend Avalon (make sure you get the second tyrol). And Upper Dream Canyon is also ace.

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 908

CCC.  Yuk.  To come from (josh, Tahquitz, Yosemite, high sierra) to CCC would be quite a let down. I don't think you asked about sport climbing anyway.  But, there is some decent climbing there in the sun if you want to clip bolts.

Eldo.  Most of Redgarden and Wind Ridge have plenty of sun from 10am till sunset and tons of routes to keep you busy.

Boulder Canyon.  Not too much trad in the sun that I can think of.  Some decent lines at the Dome and Elephant Buttresses with a super short approach.  

Lumpy.  Lots of options, short or long, great rock.  Just check the weather.  Calm winds and lots of sun could be magical.  Could be miserable too if its cloudy and windy.  

Good luck.

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16

I just got back from Estes Park three weeks ago and had a great time. If you can climb 5.9 comfortably, J-Crack slab @ The Book area at Lumpy gets sun for most of the day. There is a few days of climbing right there, ton of other stuff is close by. Might be a bit chilly   

David R · · Mesa, AZ · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 15

Thanks for the beta everyone! Eldo was definitely on the list and will check it out for sure, I’ll do some more research and take a look at the other crags!

Scoot Bank · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 873

Check out the South Platte

Mike Lane · · AnCapistan · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 880

Devils Head

Cindy · · Lafayette, CO · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 20

South Platte sunny routes the next few days

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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