D7 / Diamond in Winter

Has anyone done any routes on the Diamond (particularly D7) in the winter? Trying to get good beta in two main areas:

1.) Best approach to Broadway (is North chimney iced up?)
2.) Do the lines on the Diamond tend to get ice (potentially turning an aid route into an ice climb)?

Thanks!

No direct experience at all, but I did find this for you:
​http://www.wwwright.com/climbing/tripreports/2007/WinterDiamond.htm

​https://www.pullharder.org/2012/03/01/young-guns-part-1-colin-simon-and-kirill-langer-climb-the-diamond-in-winter/

...But why?

Once at Chasm lake I ran into a couple of weirdos going up there for a mid winter ascent. They had ski goggles, one ice tool, and an aid rack including pins. Hope that helps haha.

It blows. No ice on route, super boring C1 plugging cams and freeing what you can (actually a lot is juggy 5.8 that is easily climbable in boots and gloves). I climbed it once in February, and less than a year later climbed half of D7 again in late december (officially winter) before bailing because it is really shitty and I'd already done it. North Chimney is easy, as it's full of snow. There's still the one little mid 5th step near the top, but both times we soloed it. Bailing with a single 60 is easy, as the N chimney can be downclimbed from quite high, as it's just snow. Might have to make a nut anchor or two, but not worth lugging 2 ropes for. Another tip, don't link pitches, as whoever has the shitty job of belaying will be freezing. For this reason doing it in two blocks is probably better, as it spreads out the morale suckage between two people, instead of just one. It's a good idea to death loop, just get the thing over with. The technical crux is probably the mantle onto table ledge as it involves standing up without anything to grab onto instead of just monotonously plugging another bomber cam from your top steps.

It's not hard to do, you just have to hate yourself enough to stick it out, and perhaps be motivated by the ability to spray to the cute coeds in the alpine club about how badass you are. Giving you the heads up now though, they don't give a shit. Climbing the diamond in winter puts you in an elite club of dumbasses. Having said that, follow your dreams!

Keenan Waeschle wrote: It blows. No ice on route, super boring C1 plugging cams and freeing what you can (actually a lot is juggy 5.8 that is easily climbable in boots and gloves). I climbed it once in February, and less than a year later climbed half of D7 again in late december (officially winter) before bailing because it is really shitty and I'd already done it. North Chimney is easy, as it's full of snow. There's still the one little mid 5th step near the top, but both times we soloed it. Bailing with a single 60 is easy, as the N chimney can be downclimbed from quite high, as it's just snow. Might have to make a nut anchor or two, but not worth lugging 2 ropes for. Another tip, don't link pitches, as whoever has the shitty job of belaying will be freezing. For this reason doing it in two blocks is probably better, as it spreads out the morale suckage between two people, instead of just one. It's a good idea to death loop, just get the thing over with. The technical crux is probably the mantle onto table ledge as it involves standing up without anything to grab onto instead of just monotonously plugging another bomber cam from your top steps.

It's not hard to do, you just have to hate yourself enough to stick it out, and perhaps be motivated by the ability to spray to the cute coeds in the alpine club about how badass you are. Giving you the heads up now though, they don't give a shit. Climbing the diamond in winter puts you in an elite club of dumbasses. Having said that, follow your dreams!

I greatly appreciate the reply's. Keenen first of all congrats on your successful jaunt up D7 in Feb. My condolences the ladies weren't proud of you, but everyone here in Lone Tree CO is. By everyone I mean myself and climbing partner. Hope that brightens your day. And yes I agree this does unarguably put you in an elite group of DAs, but assuming that's my goal....a couple follow up questions for ya. 

Sounds like North chimney is pretty easy as a snow climb. Did you all solo the entire thing or just that last technical section you mentioned? Would be much quicker as a solo if it's not ultra sketch. How is it placing pro on NC? I would imagine you'd have to do a fair amount of snow removal to access the cracks....

Matt Martin wrote:

I greatly appreciate the reply's. Keenen first of all congrats on your successful jaunt up D7 in Feb. My condolences the ladies weren't proud of you, but everyone here in Lone Tree CO is. By everyone I mean myself and climbing partner. Hope that brightens your day. And yes I agree this does unarguably put you in an elite group of DAs, but assuming that's my goal....a couple follow up questions for ya. 

Sounds like North chimney is pretty easy as a snow climb. Did you all solo the entire thing or just that last technical section you mentioned? Would be much quicker as a solo if it's not ultra sketch. How is it placing pro on NC? I would imagine you'd have to do a fair amount of snow removal to access the cracks....

If you have to ask these questions YGD

Keenan Waeschle wrote:

Climbing the diamond in winter puts you in an elite club of dumbasses. Having said that, follow your dreams!

funniest thing ever said on MP!

Kip Kasperwrote: It blows. No ice on route, super boring C1 plugging cams and freeing what you can (actually a lot is juggy 5.8 that is easily climbable in boots and gloves). I climbed it once in February, and less than a year later climbed half of D7 again in late december (officially winter) before bailing because it is really shitty and I'd already done it. North Chimney is easy, as it's full of snow. There's still the one little mid 5th step near the top, but both times we soloed it. Bailing with a single 60 is easy, as the N chimney can be downclimbed from quite high, as it's just snow. Might have to make a nut anchor or two, but not worth lugging 2 ropes for. Another tip, don't link pitches, as whoever has the shitty job of belaying will be freezing. For this reason doing it in two blocks is probably better, as it spreads out the morale suckage between two people, instead of just one. It's a good idea to death loop, just get the thing over with. The technical crux is probably the mantle onto table ledge as it involves standing up without anything to grab onto instead of just monotonously plugging another bomber cam from your top steps.

It's not hard to do, you just have to hate yourself enough to stick it out, and perhaps be motivated by the ability to spray to the cute coeds in the alpine club about how badass you are. Giving you the heads up now though, they don't give a shit. Climbing the diamond in winter puts you in an elite club of dumbasses. Having said that, follow your dreams!

That’s for your positive BS feed back. Was your nipple ring vibrating in the cool, did the chicks not come running? Everything in climbing is not about being a hard ass. I first soloed it before all your tapered, custom gear for easy ascents. I think you sucking on your moms bingy.  Grow up and climb for experience not accomplishment. Loose the ink, drop the ear bugs and plug into the experience.
what a jackass

^^^^^ This !

Patrick ODonnellwrote:

That’s for your positive BS feed back. Was your nipple ring vibrating in the cool, did the chicks not come running? Everything in climbing is not about being a hard ass. I first soloed it before all your tapered, custom gear for easy ascents. I think you sucking on your moms bingy.  Grow up and climb for experience not accomplishment. Loose the ink, drop the ear bugs and plug into the experience.
what a jackass

Ok boomer.

(Am I doing it right?)

Steve Sangdahlwrote:

^^^^^ This !

Does every thread about specific routes need to become a pissing contest?

Patrick ODonnellwrote:

That’s for your positive BS feed back. Was your nipple ring vibrating in the cool, did the chicks not come running? Everything in climbing is not about being a hard ass. I first soloed it before all your tapered, custom gear for easy ascents. I think you sucking on your moms bingy.  Grow up and climb for experience not accomplishment. Loose the ink, drop the ear bugs and plug into the experience.
what a jackass

Cool necro post to remind me how many old dudes are insecure blowhards who suck to be around.

That’s sweet you soloed it back in the day. Good for you. To be fair my buddy and I had fun when we did it, and the second time when I bailed my buddy and I also had fun. I have a friend who’s soloed it in winter. Maybe I can give you his info and you can ask him personally if he’ll compare dicks.

Sounds like you’ve got lots to share about how rad you used to be, go ahead and share, we all can’t wait to hear about it!

Lol - I think the cockiness is insecurty over never having done anything considered difficult among their peers.  If X was so easy - what was hard?  Silence.  I’m kind of surprised these douche-bros from the 2008-2010 ish CU Alpine Club are still alive.

Marc Hwrote:

Ok boomer.

(Am I doing it right?)

No. You’re too old to call someone boomer.
To add insult to injury, you’re too old to know younger people don’t use that word anymore. 

James Wwrote:

Lol - I think the cockiness is insecurty over never having done anything considered difficult among their peers.  If X was so easy - what was hard?  Silence.  I’m kind of surprised these douche-bros from the 2008-2010 ish CU Alpine Club are still alive.

Shots fired

bump