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Chimney Rock in N Idaho questions...

Original Post
Travis James · · Connecticut · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 232

Hey looking to climb Chimney Rock likely via either Rappel rt or Standard rt.  Sounds like the standard rt is awesome but maybe worse rock quality than rap rt?  What would your experience recommend?

Also I can’t find any beta on the rappel down what length rope is required and how many raps is it?

Travis James · · Connecticut · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 232

bump, anyone? headed out there Tuesday

Jacob Hall · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 0

Thinking of heading there this weekend, did you find any beta on the rappel down?

Travis James · · Connecticut · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 232

4 single rope 60m raps gets you down!

Eric Roe · · Spokane · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 11

Hey, I saw your DM Jacob but forgot to reply, sorry. Anyway, when was up there a few months ago, we found three rap stations, which I marked with red x's in the pic below.  We didn't see the station I marked with a "?", but we didn't look super hard either... There might be one hidden, or I've also heard that there's a fourth class down to the next rap station.  It was pretty exposed, so we just did a ~10-15m rap down off the summit by leaving some cord.  

Jacob Hall · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 0

Awesome, thanks guys!

Travis James · · Connecticut · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 232

The rap rings with the ? mark are definitely there, they’re kinda more on the top of the north arete than west face.  The rappel groove 5.7 rte tops out on them

Zach Holt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 275

Rock quality is pretty similar on both routes mentioned. The standard route typically has a football sized piece that is questionable, and a microwave sized piece as well, but you discover them from great stances and they are easy to avoid (if still there). Route finding is probably slightly harder on the standard route, but again about the same on both. If you know the routes, the standard is a cruise, and the rappel route asks you to make numerous 5.7 moves, some being awkward I’d say. There should definitely be a rap station where the question mark is. The lowest of the rap stations on the pic is usually skipped, so one short, and two long raps with like 25 feet of downclimbing seems most common. The west face is a Miriad of broken crack systems, flakes, and blocks that all look the same. The east face offers amazing crack climbing, and easy route finding, but steep and sustained. Enjoy! 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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