I'm don't think there is much we could have done during the climb, I'm wondering if anyone has suggestions for what I can do ahead of time (like what expectations are necessary to communicate), or if 9 is just too big of a group with only one experienced person (if so how big would be reasonable), or if this is just a bizarre situation and I shouldn't worry about having someone like that on a team again. .
This is a totally normal situation when taking 9 unprepared people into technical terrain without a shakedown climb first. Next time you have someone who turns out to be such a disappointing failure bury a picket and clip them to it, take their boots, leave them a pad and sleeping bag, carry on to the summit and collect them on the way down.
This is a totally normal situation when taking 9 unprepared people into technical terrain without a shakedown climb first. Next time you have someone who turns out to be such a disappointing failure bury a picket and clip them to it, take their boots, leave them a pad and sleeping bag, carry on to the summit and collect them on the way down.