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Yosemite Big Walls vs Yosemite Bigwalls

Original Post
Jake wander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 195

Any recommendations on the Macnamara or Sloan Yosemite wall guide books? It appears that the Macnamara book doesnt have Skull Queen, but Im not certain. This is my first goal, so Id like to buy one with that route. Thanks.

trailridge · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 20

Both have skull queen. Chris Macs gives history and a bit more info. While Sloan's has a ton of routes in Yosemite. If you are sticking with mostly trade routes supertopo gives more information. 

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,043

Both books have errors. One of those book has significantly more errors, and it's much much older (read as out of date) since its last edition, and you trade significantly less topos for some history text, and it doesn't have any more information to make it super than the other* guidebook, and it's written by Chris Mac.

AKA: just get the Sloan Book

*after all, Sloan was the co-writer of the second edition of the ST bigwall book

Jake wander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 195

thanks!

Erik Sloan · · Yosemite, CA · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 336

Thanks Gang!

I'm working on Yosemite Bigwalls Select: The 100 Best, which has killer photo overlays with the route and significant features marked, so you can pick out Dinner Ledge from the Ahwahnee parking lot, as well as history, strategy, the most updated topo, etc.....hoping to have the ebook out by Xmas!
Woot Woot! Erik Sloan, Yosemitebigwall.com - Rockclimbyosemite.com

Jake wander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 195

Erik, eta on hard copy ?

Erik Sloan · · Yosemite, CA · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 336

Printing takes 3-4 months, so April would most likely be the earliest it could arrive.

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,043

Nice, a supersloan bigwall book. I’ll be buying 

Moof · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 25

Support a prolific retrobolter and send it to Sloan.

Erik Sloan · · Yosemite, CA · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 336

Yo Gang,

I'm diving into the layout of this new book. What would folks like to see in the ultimate Yosemite Bigwall guidebook?

Thanks!
Erik Sloan
RockclimbYosemite.com Yosemitebigwall.com

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70
Erik Sloan wrote: Yo Gang,

I'm diving into the layout of this new book. What would folks like to see in the ultimate Yosemite Bigwall guidebook?

Thanks!
Erik Sloan
RockclimbYosemite.com Yosemitebigwall.com

Erik,

Please think carefully about the font on the topos. Some wall climbers aren't 20 anymore and a topo needs to be clear even as the light fades. As a topo is mainly white space there is always space for a larger font. In addition the font needs to be thick, maybe semi bold, not pencil thin.

When I first went to Yosemite I really liked the little pitch grade chart the older super Topo had for each route.

If you want to give the book that little extra, and can draw, you might try inserting 10 pages of basic big wall techniques at the end. I.e. two ways to build a belay, two ways to haul etc. Just the basics.

Erik Sloan · · Yosemite, CA · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 336

Thanks David, I appreciate that feedback. I'm certainly open to playing around with different fonts.

I believe the reason we use the fonts we do in guidebooks is because you need a narrow / thin font so you can put it in the correct spot on the topo, for example you don't want the word LOOSE or SQUEEZE to be so big it is in the middle of the pitch instead of where the loose or squeeze section actually is.

Are there any font masters out there? Any want to play around with one of our topos with a different font and post up some ideas.....it takes a village, and I"m happy to improve as best we can!

Mark Hudon · · Reno, NV · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

Watch the text color on a photo. Black text on a dark photo is hard to read, white text on a bright background is equally difficult to read. Any yeah, I too am old, I need a larger font.

Mark Hudon · · Reno, NV · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

Me on the other hand, don’t want any more that just topos. I want the bare bones book, I don’t want to pay for fluff

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70

Picking up on Mark's last comment, some small amount of detail can I think be useful, for example, the first 6 pitches catch a lot of run off, or, if retreating from above pitch X, use the anchors on Z. As can a list of typical gear that might be needed. Especially in a book that might be bought by those on their first trip to the valley.

Historical stuff can move to additional pages on the web.

How about being radical, and offer the book in a ring bound form, so the topos can be removed and taken up the route?

Erik Sloan · · Yosemite, CA · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 336

Thanks Guys! Awesome suggestions!.....keep em coming ;)

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,043

I think you guys are forgetting that the Current Sloan Bigwalls book is already all topos and no fluff. I would assume that a Bigwalls SELECT book is not aiming for the I Want All The Topos crowd and instead is looking for the Supertopo crowd that has pretty much been abandoned by ChrisMac. 

Erik Sloan · · Yosemite, CA · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 336

Correct Kevin, I'll put together at least a 2019 ebook of the The Complete Guide, but this is going to be more stoke for the trade routes. This is what I"m thinking for the basic spread, and then the history could float in an action photo of the route on another page.

 
Erik Sloan · · Yosemite, CA · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 336

No feedback on this sample layout? Is this what you guys want or what elements should be added?

Jake wander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 195

looks great to me. wish i could get that exact topo before the expected printing!

any chance the book will also include a topo of the walk-off?

Erik Sloan · · Yosemite, CA · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 336

Jake that exact topo is in the Yosemite Bigwalls: The Complete Guide 2017 Ebook, you can get it at yosemitebigwall.com for $10, includes all the latest topos to the Valley.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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