Best autolocking mechanism?
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I was considering getting an autolocking carabiner (mainly for belaying) but even if I did decide I wanted an autolocker there are so many to choose from. My top 2 choices are one of the grivel twin gates (which one would be best for belaying?) and the black diamond magnetron rocklock. I like the grivel because of how grit/grime/cold proof it looks and I like the magnetron because of how easy it seems. If you had to choose an autolocker for belaying would you go for a twin gate or a magnetron? |
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Of the two you listed - Magnetron. Simple system and easier to clip into a belay device. |
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For belaying I would personally go with a magnetron. I am also a fan of the Edelrid slider. The twingate has the one major distinction of being the only autolocker on the market (that I am aware of) which allows you to clip a rope into it one handed. But having to manipulate that outer gate makes it a bit clunky. Heres a rundown. |
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Pirate WireEye Autolock Carabiner :) Really awesome autolocking biner |
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Edelrid slider, great idea, but once they start sticking open it's a different story. I tried cleaning/lubing them to keep them working, but all eventually succumbed to sticking. Luckily edelrid replaced all of mine with screwgates. |
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I really like the Mad Rock Ultra Tech Twist Lock. Now, it would be too small a diameter for belaying with anythign other than a GriGri, but I use them for anchors and they are very smooth. |
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Pretty stoked on the Clepsydra belay biner.
I use the small with the gri and the big one with the atc Disclaimer: I get discounted prices for Grivel and BD. I do like the Grivel lockers though. |
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The Petzl Am’D with the Triact-lock is by far my favorite minimum hassle auto locker. Magnetron’s in my experience become weak at the gate and have too much play after a lot of use. My Am’Ds are strong as ever after 4 years. Ultra solid locking mechanism. |
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ChadMartino wrote: The Petzl Am’D with the Triact-lock is by far my favorite minimum hassle auto locker. Magnetron’s in my experience become weak at the gate and have too much play after a lot of use. My Am’Ds are strong as ever after 4 years. Ultra solid locking mechanism. Play in what aspect? |
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My favorite is the DMM Locksafe mechanism. |
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David Fox wrote: Wobbly gate broh |
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Skeet |
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Edelrid sliders are sticking after <1 yr of use, Magnetron is sticking after <6 months(and wobbly gate broh). Cleaning them doesn't seem to help. Neat ideas but that's about it. |
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If you are using a tuber I would get an HMS style biner. |
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I like the Black Diamond twist locks. This is really a question of personal preference. |
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I also use a Clepsydra small for a grigri and love it. It does have a clean nose, unlike some of their earlier twin gates. I believe that the larger Clepsydra does as well, but don't recall for sure.For a grigri the motion putting it on is incredibly fast and intuitive. I haven't used a twin gate with a tube style device. |
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You are over thinking this. In a year you'll have a dozen different biners. |
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go twin gate. I use a lambda k7g. also check out the grivel tau. |
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Magnetron is definitely a one handed carabiner once you spend a couple minutes playing with it (spine against web between the thumb and finger, use the same thumb and finger to unlock). I have noticed it is much easier with the bigger version. It can freeze, but usually only happens if you get snow on it which is rare for a belay biner. Easily (relatively) solved with a tap of an ice axe, which I think is an underrated quality. Try unscrewing a frozen screw gate without pliers... |
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I've been using the magnetrons for a few years and love them. If you're in an area with a lot of ferrous (iron) rock or planning to ice climbthen they can be less useful. I have 2 of the larger and 2 of the smaller and will probably get one more of each sometime soon. I take a lot of new people out so I put them on TR anchors where they can't unscrew each other like screwgates and I hate not having them for my belay device when I do that. |
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Andy W wrote: go twin gate. I use a lambda k7g. also check out the grivel tau. I have always been curious about these. They seem like a hassle to clip, but I have only handled them in the store. |