Is it too late for FlyBoys at the end of September?

Me and my friend want to end this season with FlyBoys. This is our first multi-pitch season and we have some experiences climbing 5.9-5.10, 4-6 pitches routes here in BC (in Squamish of course). Flyboys looks very interesting and it can be great to finish this season with it. However, I wonder if I need more multi-pitch experience to climb it and if weather is too cold already to climb it.

I've followed weather forecast for the last few weeks and temperature drops too low during the night. It might be even colder at the top. Does anyone know if end of September still good time to climb FlyBoys (we plan to go last weekend of September, maybe first weekend of October)?

On the other topic, MountainProject says it is 17 multi-pitches. The hardest so far I did with my friend was Centurion (5.10d - 6 pitches), and we were quite exhausted at the end. How much experience we need to climb FlyBoys and how hard it is to climb 17 pitches there.

I have not done this route. But I did Prime Rib in early June last year.

On a sunny day it will probably be really nice! of course you will want jackets and layers and a HEADLAMP just in case.

One small piece of advice for long, fully bolted routes, is to pre-make an anchor out of slings or cord and use it the whole way up (don't keep tying and untying it). Since they're all bolted anchors, it makes it just a little faster. Now people will jump in on this comment and say "just use the rope, bro," which you can also do, and could be faster if you have practiced with it.

You can also read the numerous comments about linking pitches. That will also make climbing the route faster.

Pre-made anchor is a great advice! Thanks! 

if it is dry it should be a really nice time for it.  the pitches go by pretty quickly, so i would think you should be ok.  definitely bring a headlamp, and if at all possible stash a car or bikes at the top so you don't have to rappel the route.

Climbed it a few days ago. Honestly, don’t bother. A total chossfest except for 2 pitches. I know “18 pitches” sounds cool but in reality it’s like 9 with some hiking thrown in. 

I think a lot of this would come down to how fast you can climb and turn over at the belay. You aren't going to have many hours of light in Sept/October (assuming that you find a dry day) and you will need to move quickly to finish the route unless you are comfortable climbing in the dark. The road to the top of goat wall was closed as of yesterday, so you would have to rappel instead of car shuttle, but they may have reopened it with the rain they got this weekend. If you do have to rappel instead of shuttle, this will add several hours to the climb.

I've done most of the routes on Goat Wall and I would suggest starting out with Prime Rib. The best pitches on Flyboys are at the top and if you think you may not make it all the way up there, Prime Rib would be a great outing and not as committing.

Don Ferris III wrote: Climbed it a few days ago. Honestly, don’t bother. A total chossfest except for 2 pitches. I know “18 pitches” sounds cool but in reality it’s like 9 with some hiking thrown in. 

ha ha, sounds like eldo...  except substitute "in reality it's more like 2 with some hiking thrown in"

bwahahhahhahhaaaaa.....

slim wrote:

ha ha, sounds like eldo...  except substitute "in reality it's more like 2 with some hiking thrown in"

bwahahhahhahhaaaaa.....

Slim, do you have some personal attachment to the route or did you just really enjoy it?

Don Ferris II, which pitches were chossy? We did it in July and for over 1,000 feet of face climbing, with only intermittent cracks, it seemed pretty solid. At least when compared to smith rock, Vantage, and the basalt crags around here.  I don't think my partner or I broke any holds, encountered any dubious blocks, or dislodged any loose stuff, which is rare for a multi-pitch that's been around for under one year. I didn't love the route or find it that aesthetic, but it was a fun day of lots and lots of moderate and un-stressful climbing in a pretty setting. It's no Prusik or Liberty Bell but then again it's not a granite spire FA'ed in the '60s and climbed 100,000 times since. For some reason people love to bash this route, I think because it allows gym climbers to pretend they're alpinists and some people don't like that. Anyway, you don't do the route for its aesthetics or an adrenaline rush, you do it because it's big and unique and worth doing once if you like clipping bolts on moderate terrain.

PS  - I didn't rap the route, so maybe the rap line is where it's chossy?

Haha, me and Niko are actually "gym climbers who pretend to be alpinists" :D. Well, no, not pretend, just start to get into all that outdoor-multi-pitch-crack-trad stuff :). So if it's a simple climb that would make it a pro, not con. We can do our acrobatics and tiny crimps in the gym for now.

Don Ferris III wrote:

Slim, do you have some personal attachment to the route or did you just really enjoy it?

i thought it was fun, given the rock available to work with, etc.  obviously it's not an insano 5 start classic, but i thought it was worth doing and a nice way to spend the morning.  i liked the topout - really nice rock ledges to hang out and enjoy the scenery.

also, given that most of the rock climbing in WA turns to shit in september through early june, it is nice to have these types of routes that have shoulder seasons.

bryans wrote: PS  - I didn't rap the route, so maybe the rap line is where it's chossy?

Nah. The rap line is cruiser. Sure, I'd consider it chossy relative to a gym.

IMO it's much easier to bail off Flyboys than Prime Rib. While both aren't very committing (insert caveats), the rap line is easier to follow on FB. The route is about as good as it gets for the grade and length, if not world class.

I second the vote to do Prime Rib first.  Slightly easier, technically.  Shorter, but still long enough to make it a fun day out without the stress of running out of daylight.  You'll need to watch your turn around time, whichever you do!

Now all you need is a sunny day!!

Seems like we're having one coming. Hopefully forecast is not gonna change.

Approach takes ~1 hour, in my experience.
Pitch 1-8 took us 3.5 hours.
Rappel from Pitch 8 down to the bottom took 1.5 hours. The rap section has separate anchors then the climb. 70 meter rope is much better than 60 meter rope.

There's probably about 9.5 hours of daylight, leaving you about 6.5 hours for the way up, and 3.5 hours for the rap down. So the approach should be very, very early in the dark, to make sure the rappel is not in the dark IMO.

Thanks for the info! Good to know it's doable. We didn't manage to do it in September - weather, work and other life things :)