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Shoe recommendations

Original Post
Forrest Carver · · Edgecomb, ME · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 150

Just wore out my first pair of climbing shoes (scarpa force v) and am looking for a recommendation on replacement.

I'm a novice weekend warrior and climb mostly slab and face trad

1.) due to having coupons and codes and such to use up, only looking at Scarpa, Black Diamond, or La Sportiva
2.) I wear a size 46.5 and was not able to climb in 46, even though the 46 would have probably stretched to be perfection. My feet might have toughened up enough by this point to handle the break-in period but I don't really want to risk it (and don't really need the performance of a too-tight fit)

I realize that demoing shoes is the best option, but I live far from a climbing store and am comfortable buying sight unseen based on internet strangers' recommendations, so lay 'em on me

stolo · · Lake Norman, NC · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 214

The Force V is a nice shoe, you should get it resoled if in good condition and it fits you. If scarpa fits you, check out the vapor v or the techno x (or w/e their replacement of it was)

Ira OMC · · Hardwick, VT · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 730

I have been wearing black diamond aspects this summer. I really like them for northeastern trad climbing. Size same as your sneakers. 

Live Perched · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 21

The Scarpa Vapor lace up is a real nice shoe for all day trad.  I use those on long days and Butora Alturas (high tops) on single pitch days.  I size the vapors to wear with socks so I can take of the socks if my feet get sore or put on the socks for a tighter fit.  Most people would probably use the high top for a longer day, which I would do too if I felt I needed the extra support and protection the whole day. 

Nick Drake · · Kent, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 651
stolo wrote: The Force V is a nice shoe, you should get it resoled if in good condition and it fits you. If scarpa fits you, check out the vapor v or the techno x (or w/e their replacement of it was)

The techno x replacement is the "maestro" and it's vastly different. It has a flat sole, but big volume toe box designed to knuckle up your big toe. Very different last than the techno was. In my opinion it's a turd of a shoe that completely missed the mark for any amount of crack climbing. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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