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Are lines consistantly fixed to sickle ledge on the nose?

Original Post
Mark Westfall · · Denver · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

If I were to show up to the valley to try and do the nose would it be unreasonable to find lines fixed all the way down from sickle ledge?

Nkane 1 · · East Bay, CA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 475

I wouldn't rely on them being there.

Aaron Hope · · San Luis Obispo · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 346

There are often fixed lines down from Sickle...but they are temporary and using them means using someone else's gear. Fixed ropes from Sickle are not permanently fixed (i.e. abandoned) liked other fixed lines in the Valley (east ledges, mammoth terrace, etc.).  If you see fixed ropes from Sickle, they were likely put there by a team doing the first four pitches the day before and they will be taken down the next day...only to be replaced with a different set of ropes by a different team. You can often work with another team to share fixed ropes...but this is a tricky situation...because, on the Nose, its a bit competitive...

Mydans · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 70

It doesn't count unless you climb the first 4 pitches. ;-). seriously though like the above poster said fixed lines on sickle are temporary and its not cool to just go up and jug someone else lines.  I saw a local get in someones face a few years ago and almost punched the guy for using their ropes so don't just assume that its open season on fixed ropes to sickle.  When we did it we fixed our own ropes and actually left a note telling other parties not to use them.  We dropped the extra lines and had a friend grab them for us.  The ropes to mammoth are "permanent" in that they are often donated but climbers who have extra cord lying around.  However they tend to get trashed pretty fast and its definitely "buyer beware".  There are often knots isolating core shots which is more of a problem going up than down.  I often see people just jugging the fixed lines to mammoth but I think thats lame if you're not actually climbing because it wears out the fixed lines faster with more people using them.

Mark Westfall · · Denver · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0
Mydans wrote: It doesn't count unless you climb the first 4 pitches. ;-). seriously though like the above poster said fixed lines on sickle are temporary and its not cool to just go up and jug someone else lines.  I saw a local get in someones face a few years ago and almost punched the guy for using their ropes so don't just assume that its open season on fixed ropes to sickle.  When we did it we fixed our own ropes and actually left a note telling other parties not to use them.  We dropped the extra lines and had a friend grab them for us.  The ropes to mammoth are "permanent" in that they are often donated but climbers who have extra cord lying around.  However they tend to get trashed pretty fast and its definitely "buyer beware".  There are often knots isolating core shots which is more of a problem going up than down.  I often see people just jugging the fixed lines to mammoth but I think thats lame if you're not actually climbing because it wears out the fixed lines faster with more people using them.

That's the beta I was looking for.

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 378

I took a ride on the fixed lines to Mammoth, actually the lines from Mammoth to Pharaoh Ledge.  I was jugging a fixed line to Pharaoh and was near the top when the sheath totally detached and powdered right in front of my eyes.   I slid on my jugs about 10 feet down the fixed line until the sheath bunched up and stopped me.  Fortunately there was another fixed line right next to this one, after I cleaned my shorts i swapped lines and continued to the top.   Never blindly trust a fixed line.  

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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