Conness N ridge approach beta question

Hey all,

I did most of the approach to the north ridge of Conness but got chased off by weather so it's time to go back and get it done.

On the approach I'm curious if everyone goes up that steep 4th class gully feature to gain the ridge, detailed here and in the Supertopo book. As it's chossy and crappy terrain I wondered about gaining the bench below North peak lower in the valley and taking that up instead. Has anyone done that? Maybe it's heinous scree or something, but figured I'd ask. Thanks!

It seems like that bench below North Peak would be fine. We were traversing the top of that bench (coming from summit of North Peak), and I do remember a lot of loose rock and some snow patches. Maybe those are some reasons to avoid it, although I bet it goes at class two/three from the valley.

I've been preaching a lot lately about approaching north ridge of Conness via the northwest ridge of North Peak for extra climbin. If you're interested...see below pic...otherwise hopefully others will chime in with a better answer!

jt newgard wrote: It seems like that bench below North Peak would be fine. We were traversing the top of that bench (coming from summit of North Peak), and I do remember a lot of loose rock and some snow patches. Maybe those are some reasons to avoid it, although I bet it goes at class two/three from the valley.

I've been preaching a lot lately about approaching north ridge of Conness via the northwest ridge of North Peak for extra climbin. If you're interested...see below pic...otherwise hopefully others will chime in with a better answer!

PS. I can't personally vouch for the purple line on the topo above. It's just what I got after googling mt conness caltopo.

I actually considered that linkup and it looks fantastic. However, I'm not into soloing everything and concerned we wouldn't move fast enough, ending up doing the descent in the dark. It really depends on how much short roping we do. Perhaps another time...thanks!

There's a bench  between the two peaks at the toe of the glacier.  Hike up and left.  There's a low spot where the two peaks terminate and or originate.

Just take the chute. It's no big deal. If you go up the low angle sand further to the right, it's even worse, looser and takes longer.

cLImb north peak on the way! The descent deposits you right on the sidewalk at the start of n ridge and avoids the crappy sand hill 

Cory Brooks wrote: Just take the chute. It's no big deal. If you go up the low angle sand further to the right, it's even worse, looser and takes longer.

I ended up taking the 2nd from left chute this time and it was totally cool. The first time I went up there (and bailed because of weather) we went up the left chute that is marked in the Supertopo book. That one is no bueno and the reason I was considering hiking around on the sand. The ST high sierra book is generally really good, but some of the beta for this climb is a little strange.

Nice, glad it worked out for you guys. When in doubt make your own route!

PS. Got any pics of the second from left chute? Just curious.

jt newgard wrote: Nice, glad it worked out for you guys. When in doubt make your own route!

PS. Got any pics of the second from left chute? Just curious.

Unfortunately I don't. There's a really nice clean hand crack in the middle that's more 5th class, but the right side is a scramble and not too loose.