One day to climb Red Rocks, what would you do.

I'll be down for my once a year visit to family for five days in early October.  I can get one day out to climb while I'm there.

If you were a .10+ climber, looking for one big trad day, willing to hike a ways and deal with some adventure, what would you do?

I'm thinking of either knocking out a few routes in Black Velvet.  Sour Mash, Fiddler on the Roof, maybe one more if time allows.  
Or, Cinnamon Hedgehog on Cactus Flower, plus maybe some pitches of Blood on the Tracks if time allows and mid-route retreat is easy.  The Warrior looks rad but at my limit, for sure, and could turn into a not super fun day.
Or, Inti Watana to Resolution Arete.  Looks like that can turn into an overnight if not moving super efficiently, though..

Also, I'll be looking for a partner between 10/5 - 10/8,  preferably the Friday or Monday since hopefully it will be a little quieter. If any of this looks like a fun day to you, let me know!

Epinephrine.

Definitely Epinephrine.

Eagle Dance?

I put in a vote for Ini-Watana to Resolution. Super fun climb and all the hard climbing is bolt protected, so it goes fast.  One of my favorite days in RR.  Fantastic exposure on the upper pitches and Resolution Arete is fun adventure climbing, a big switch from the bolt clipping on I-W.  The hike off is a bit confusing, but enjoyable.  

Another big link up in ther 5.10 range is Black Orpheus to Eagle Dance.  Both routes have really enjoyable climbing, though you never get quite the exposure of I-W.  Top couple pitches of Eagle Dance have definitely lost some holds and we ended up aiding/standing on bolts, but maybe we were just weak at that point.  The walk-off is one of my favorite hikes I've done out there.  Took ~12hrs car2car.  

If you want something less epic, but still fun.  Mr. Z to Armatron is the classic link up that everyone seems to be talking about.  I also really like Dark Shadows taken to the top of the Mescalito.  Good climbing on the lower pitches, adventurous up top, and 4th class simuling for the last few pitches.  Getting off that route can be an adventure as well.  Mr. Z to Armatron can be a half day or less if you move fast, Dark Shadows is a bit more involved.  

I don't think blood on the tracks has fixed anchors, so bailing would likely mean leaving gear.

Take a look at Adventure Punks

Instead of Mr Z to Armatron do Saddle up to Nightcrawler. 

Thanks for the suggestions.  I think I'll pass on Epinephrine, though it's on the list for a "do it sometime."  I get the feeling that was minor trolling, anyway..

Forgot about Adventure Punks... that looks like a lot of fun.  Is there another route nearby that is recommended and would add to a full day?  The rest of Challenger Wall looks a bit out of my pay grade.

Saddle Up-Nightcrawler link looks like a blast.  Maybe time to do Black Pearl while in there, too.

Paul L wrote: Thanks for the suggestions.  I think I'll pass on Epinephrine, though it's on the list for a "do it sometime."  I get the feeling that was minor trolling, anyway..

Forgot about Adventure Punks... that looks like a lot of fun.  Is there another route nearby that is recommended and would add to a full day?  The rest of Challenger Wall looks a bit out of my pay grade.

Challenger is a fantastic route and totally reasonable for a solid 5.10 trad climber. If you’re considering Adventure Punks, Challenger should be a non-issue. 

Another option to consider is Risky Business, rounded out with Slot Machine and Edge Dressing. Not a huge day, but super high quality in your grade range. 

Nightcrawler is badass. Kinda short for just one day, but I've didn't know about the Saddle Up link which sounds cool.
I haven't gotten to some of the other rec's on the thread but they're all on my list and all look awesome.

I feel that early October is still a little warm to be climbing in full day sun in Red Rock. Anything on Solar Slab, Eagle Wall or similar aspect would still be a little too miserable for my taste (in an average year). Shady walls like Black Velvet will be a lot nicer. The sunny walls can be done, but if you're looking for optimal sending temps and not having to carry a ton of water, shade is the way to go.

Flight of wild turkeys
Triassic sands

After a little bird told me that Gift of the Wind Gods had undergone a re-bolt recently replacing a mix of less-than stellar old gear, and that you could rap the route at any time, I decided to climb the first seven pitches of Gift and then run over and do the first four pitches of Inti Wantana.  Couldn't have asked for a much better day.  

I've seen some mention that the first pitch of Gift is lackluster, but I wouldn't agree.  A bit weird, but still fun and worthwhile.  The next six pitches are all gold and it would be hard to pick a favorite.  I must have yelled out, 'This is so good!' about two dozen times.  All pitches were engaging, but protect well and with the new bolts made any crux moves easy to go for.  My RR experience is limited, but I'd be stoked to find just one of those pitches in seven pitches of climbing most places.  

We linked P1/P2 and P3/P4 of Inti with an 80, and I don't know why you wouldn't do it that way if you have the rope.  Two mega pitches of great climbing.  

If it's a warm late summer or fall day, I think you'd be hard pressed to find a better place to be climbing.  We were in the shade basically all day, with killer position and didn't see another person all day.  Heard a couple of voices from over on Cactus Flower while on Gift, and got buzzed by a helicopter and a couple of planes, but otherwise it was pretty easy to forget you were 30 minutes from town.  

Only thing that would have made it better was having enough daylight to knock down a few more pitches of Inti, and I'll definitely be back to do the full route another time.  
I am curious about the last few pitches of Gift, and would gladly climb it again just to say I've done every pitch.  
Two stellar routes essentially right next to each other, with an approach and enough continuous engaging climbing to keep crowds well away.

It’s really nice when people post the follow up to their questions. Glad that you had a great time. 

Probably best to cross Blood on the Tracks off your list. I have friends (who live and climb here regularly) who got excited about it when it was first posted ( and climb in a similar range to you.) They epiced on it, said it was a dirty, scary sandbag, and didn't get off til 3 am in the morning.

With that route being put up by blake I don't doubt what you say, but it only makes me more intrigued. Maybe it is Index "5.9"?