The Devils Lake top rope cluster Fu&k thread...

I disagree with the hate towards fixed gear. In fact, there are a few climbs which would be 5-star if we just threw in a couple Nicros jugs here and there. Just saying. 

marcin1 wrote:

marcin wrote:

Looks like the biner is being used as a nut more than the actual nut.

Logan Anderson wrote:

Looks like the biner is being used as a nut more than the actual nut.

Creative little bastards...

Logan Anderson wrote:

Looks like the biner is being used as a nut more than the actual nut.

I can just picture how beautiful hundreds of permanent anchors would look up there.  I'm sure no one would trip on them. Learn to place pro correctly.  And what would keep someone from tying a single web to the anchor anyway?  Or use one biner?  

There's already fixed anchors up there. They're called trees and boulders

Also a few stuck nuts and cams...

Dylan B. wrote:

You, sir, for the crime of furthering the fixed anchor argument without contributing to the photos of sketchy gear anchors, are hereby sentenced to a day of weeding garlic mustard. Do not violate your sentence by climbing at DL until you've met for conditions in full, or the Climbing Gods will show their wrath.

How is he supposed to contribute sketchy gear anchors without climbing at DL?

Ted Pinson wrote: Also a few stuck nuts and cams...

Those aren't fixed anchors; those are booty.

Excuse me Professor, what’s another name for pirate treasure?!?

Here is a set up that was on the east bluff today.  It was on "The Beginning" to the right of birch tree and stretcher.  The black and purple slings were around trees and individually looked solid. The black sling was girth hitched to the purple sling. Then only one sling over the edge (through a sharp crack) to one biner,  Not sure what the 'T' shaped chock (bleu and red sling) was providing.  Very bad angle and placed poorly.

I would not have climbed on this one!

Nice!  The single biner is a locker and perfectly fine IMO.  The biggest issue I’d have with it is the non-redundancy of soft goods with the single purple loop running over the edge.  That thing gets cut, you’re dead...

Go home, anchor. You're drunk!

The girth hitch is what, giving the purple sling a goodbye hug?
The chockstone protects both climbers in the event of the reversal of gravity

jon jugenheimer wrote: Excuse me Professor, what’s another name for pirate treasure?!?

why its booty of course 

Wow, props for even owning a “Titon”!  Suppose it’s clipped to the anchor  to keep from losing it?

The biner is a steel locker, so no redundancy needed on that, but all of the webbing looks like a horror show.

Seriously, if it were just about strength then you wouldn't need redundancy in any TR or rap setup (except a single tiny micro nut) (he says, having rapped off a single nut & biner this last week - but not at the Lake).

Dylan B. wrote:

That looks like a standard aluminum Rock Lock to me. goo.gl/images/GHzzHq

Regardless, redundancy of caribiners at a top rope master point isn’t about the strength of the caribiner, it’s about accidental opening. Steel caribiners should be doubled up too, IMO.

Explain how a locked carabiner floating in space on a toprope will accidentally open.