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Moderate Finger Cracks in the Northeast

Original Post
Tyler Newcomb · · New York, New York | Boston · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 81

I'm looking for some thin fingers to thin hands crack in the northeast, anything from 5.8 to 5.10c maybe even 10d.

Closer to Burlington, VT the better.

Andrew Mertens · · Fort Collins · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 136

Here are some great ones:

Vertigo -Cannon cliff (while you are there, do the great 1-pitch tips crack of Sticky Fingers)

Seventh Seal - Loose Lips, Whitehorse (Ethereal crack is also great tips 10d, Sleeping Beauty for diagonal 10c finger crack).

Nutcracker, and Last pitch of the Prow 10a, Cathedral Cliff

Bird's nest, They Died Laughing, and the Slot, Cathedral Cliff North end

Center Crack - Deer's Leep, VT

Black Jack Crack- Rumney

Fastest Gun- Poko Moonshine

Several routes at the Beer walls, Adirondacks, though they don't climb like pure finger cracks. 

Recollections of Pacifica - Precipice at Acadia (several other fun finger cracks here, but far from Burlington)

Kate Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 35

North End at Cathedral Ledge has 4ish amazing finger/hand cracks. All singlepitch. The Slot, Bailsafe, They Died Laughing and Bird's Nest all in a row with fingerlocks and hands on each one, all .8-.10a. Plus plenty more to climb outside of the crowded north end ;)

jessie briggs · · NH · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 646

The slot .10b bailsafe .10c they died and birds nest .9. Chicken delight is great .9. Last pitch of recompense .9 quite spectacular. Both lookout cracks .9. There’s a ton of good 5.9 cracks at cathedral. 

petzl logic · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 730

the sting at poko ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

Caz Drach · · C'Wood, UT · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 310

Just buy the guidebook to the DAKS...

Do the THORN in Bolton its 11a ... everyone knows 11a is easier than 10d

MaxSuffering · · KVNY · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 0

ADK routes I can think of with either lot's of fingers or a fingercrack crux (In addition to what's been mentioned already):

Star Sailer, Pitchoff (.10c)
Brrright Star, Pitchoff (.9+)
Lick It Up, Barkeater (.10b)
Rockaholic, Beer Walls (.8)
TR, Spider's Web (.10a)
Forever Young, Silver Lake, Never Never Land (.10c)
Breakfast Can Wait, Silver Lake, Purple Rain (.9)
Suppertime, Silver Lake, Purple Rain (.9)
Finger Lock'n Good, Silver Lake, Summit Cliff (.10d)
Crackus Interuptus, Silver Lake, Summit Cliff (.10a)
Handlebarbarism, Silver Lake Summit Cliff (.10b)
Bromancing the Stone, Silver Lake, Center of Progress (.10d)
Tooth and Nail, Silver Lake, Center of Progress (.10c/d)
Oddy's Crack of Horror, Crane (.10b)
Amphitheater Crack, Crane (.9+)
Plumb Line, Crane (.11a -Yeah I know but the gear is really good, and if you can do the .10c/d routes above it won't be that bad.)
The Pusher, Sugarloaf (.9 A0)
Dish'n It Out, Devil's Washdish (.10b)

Ira OMC · · Hardwick, VT · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 730

In addition to the above excellent suggestions,  look to Black Mountain way up in the Northeast Kingdom.  Bikes and Ditches, Black Mamba, and Wild Black all feature some nice finger cracks in the mid 10s.  ... and i second the thorn in Bolton,  its barely any harder than the Rose. .... and since were talking sbout 11a s, Airation on Cathedral.......and since we're talking North Conway., upper Tranquility on the south butt of Whitehorse

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470
  • After  spending the summer  climbing in Wyoming,  Montana,  Idaho and the  Black Hills of SD I am quite certain that I  will  never  intentionally  climb  rock at  Cathedral again.  Great  ice climbing and mixed  venue  but  just too  damn slippery to be  really enjoyable  rock climbing....
Aunt Patty · · Fryeburg, ME · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 213
Nick Goldsmith wrote:
  • After  spending the summer  climbing in Wyoming,  Montana,  Idaho and the  Black Hills of SD I am quite certain that I  will  never  intentionally  climb  rock at  Cathedral again.  Great  ice climbing and mixed  venue  but  just too  damn slippery to be  really enjoyable  rock climbing....

North end is to slippery for my liking as well, but unfair to lump all of cathedral into that. Plus, it's a little cheaper and closer than the destinations you listed. Glad you had a good summer vacation

Nick Votto · · CO, CT, IT · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 320

The Thorn is 30 mins from downtown Burlington, definitely worth getting on as much as you can

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470

Fair has  nothing to do with it.  Is what  it is....

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470

Cannon, Willard, hounds hump  etc. All  much more pleasant to the touch.. north end is  hideous...

petzl logic · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 730

there are some nice finger cracks in val david i just remembered about. sceptre is a john turner classic, 5.9ish. not an impossible day trip from burlington and it would make for a memorable weekend if you have a passport or enhanced drivers license. 

Christian Eaton · · Concord, NH · Joined May 2014 · Points: 115

Vultures - off the Kanc at Sundown. 

Tyler Newcomb · · New York, New York | Boston · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 81
petzl logic wrote: there are some nice finger cracks in val david i just remembered about. sceptre is a john turner classic, 5.9ish. not an impossible day trip from burlington and it would make for a memorable weekend if you have a passport or enhanced drivers license. 

I'm heading up to that area soon.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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