IRELAND - Aug 12-16

Going to be in Ireland with family from 8/12-16, but am down to climb for 1 or 2 of those days.  12+ sport, 11- trad, though I likely will not have my rack with me.  Would love to get on the best single or multi-pitch routes of the land of my ancestors.

You're gonna be hard pressed to find any sport climbs in Ireland. There's a lot of bouldering in the burren and some trad that I know of near Lisdoonvarna if you're going to be in the southwest, but honestly your best bet for info on it is going to be to buy yourself a guidebook ahead of time.

Lauren Wilson wrote: You're gonna be hard pressed to find any sport climbs in Ireland. There's a lot of bouldering in the burren and some trad that I know of near Lisdoonvarna if you're going to be in the southwest, but honestly your best bet for info on it is going to be to buy yourself a guidebook ahead of time.

Thanks Lauren! Yeah - trying to avoid bringing the rack, but it doesn't look like there are any bolts to clip in Ireland, unlike Iceland.  Maybe I will bring a small rack out.

The only sport crag in Ireland that I'm aware of is Ballykeefe Quarry in Kilkenny, but I wouldn't recommend making the trip there as the routes are nothing to write home about (any of the half decent ones are so loosely bolted that they're just trad climbs with bolts on unprotectable slab sections). If you end up bringing a rack, let me know where you'll be in Ireland and I can suggest some routes. Can't take you out myself unfortunately as I'm in Squamish for the summer!

Dalkey Quarry outside of Dublin is a great place to get your fix and likely find partners.  Glendalough in Kerry is great, Ailladie on the west coast is amazing, and Fair Head is the crown jewel of Irish climbing.

And yeah...as someone who has been to Ballykeefe...bring your rack!

Adam Doran wrote: The only sport crag in Ireland that I'm aware of is Ballykeefe Quarry in Kilkenny, but I wouldn't recommend making the trip there as the routes are nothing to write home about (any of the half decent ones are so loosely bolted that they're just trad climbs with bolts on unprotectable slab sections). If you end up bringing a rack, let me know where you'll be in Ireland and I can suggest some routes. Can't take you out myself unfortunately as I'm in Squamish for the summer!

Enjoy Squamish, it's epic! One of my favorite places in the world to climb.  So beautiful.  Give the Grand Wall a shot if you can, amazing line of climbing!

Hey James! Good chance I will be around then, I'm travelling around the UK with a rack and rope, and also looking for quality multi pitch trad routes. Climb to a few grades lower maybe 11- but happy to second on the harder pitches, I'll do some hunting in the next couple of days for route ideas, and let me know if you have any suggestions!

Taner and James, I'll be in Ireland around that same time too. I'm looking at climbing on 12th and do trad, sport, and multi-pitch. I could probably bring a light rack with me. I'll be near Dublin on the 12th, and leaving for Northern Ireland later in the afternoon/evening.

Not sure how much time I will have to climb as I will be with family.  Let me confirm my agenda and get back to you guys. 

James E wrote: Not sure how much time I will have to climb as I will be with family.  Let me confirm my agenda and get back to you guys. 

So I did some digging and found this pdf of a developing guidebook for bouldering around Doolin on the west coast. It's a pretty cool place to climb since it's right next to the ocean, but you would have to find someone with pads if you're interested. There's a climbing co-op in Galway that would maybe have some to rent/people who would maybe go with to "show you the ropes." Depending on where in Ireland your family is at this could be a fun day trip. 

http://www.theshortspan.com/guide/doolin.pdf

8/12 - Dublin and heading to Belfast
8/13 - Ballycastle and then heading to Mallaranny
8/14 - Galway, Cliffs of Moher
8/15 - Spanish Pt head to Dingle Pennisul
8/16 Killarny Nat'l Park and train back to Dublin to fly home.

Pretty packed, and I'm sorta along for the ride since I'm splitting a rental w/my sister and BIL. If there's climbing near any of those spots, can prob break away for half day or so.

James E wrote: 8/12 - Dublin and heading to Belfast
8/13 - Ballycastle and then heading to Mallaranny
8/14 - Galway, Cliffs of Moher
8/15 - Spanish Pt head to Dingle Pennisul
8/16 Killarny Nat'l Park and train back to Dublin to fly home.

Pretty packed, and I'm sorta along for the ride since I'm splitting a rental w/my sister and BIL. If there's climbing near any of those spots, can prob break away for half day or so.

Fairhead is less than 10 minutes from Ballycastle by car, and it's some of the best climbing in all of Ireland and the UK. Can give plenty of recommendations at a range of grades if you do manage to make it up for the day. The approach is as short as 20 minutes from the car so it's perfect for a short day trip.

James E wrote: 8/12 - Dublin and heading to Belfast
8/13 - Ballycastle and then heading to Mallaranny
8/14 - Galway, Cliffs of Moher
8/15 - Spanish Pt head to Dingle Pennisul
8/16 Killarny Nat'l Park and train back to Dublin to fly home.

Pretty packed, and I'm sorta along for the ride since I'm splitting a rental w/my sister and BIL. If there's climbing near any of those spots, can prob break away for half day or so.

Doolin is on the way from Galway to the cliffs (about 1hr20mn from Galway, 15ish minutes from the cliffs) if you can find a way to make that work.

Doolin may be harder to do, but I am definitely interested in checking out Fairhead, which seems to be easiest to fit into the agenda. Unlikely Doolin will happen given that I'm basically along for the ride.  Anyone here interested in Fairhead 8/13?  May just show up and see if I can find any partners if not.