Big Cam or Big Bro for Baby

I have been eye balling Baby and would like to try it but not without a big piece.  

Would anyone out there be willing to lend me something bigger than a #4bd?

I've got ya covered

As long as you're good with gear that's as old as you R
let me know if you need 'em.
(it goes on 3 pink, 2 red & 1 purple . . . . . Tri-cams)

I find that a piece large enough to "make you feel good" gets severely in the way as you squirm up the crack. But I suppose it's less of a problem if you (redacted) the crack instead of (redacted).

Michael, sadly there are very few cams older than me and none of those have flexible stems like the ones pictured.  And even more sadly despite my age I am very inexperienced in climbing. So I am striving to climb harder exactly when my tendons and joints scream for relief.  In this moment, any guidance on placements is very very welcome.  I climbed to the bottom of the off width, high enough to place a #4.  I did not see cracks or joints suitable for tricams. Did I miss something?

I’ll send you a DM regarding those pretty #6s.

Gunkiemike, you’re point is (redacted)ing clear.  

Cheers to the gunks community!!!

One of my all time favorite climbs.  Good hand size protects the move as I remember.  Throw your leg into it and climb the crack.  You are the gear as well.  Some good pro just above the move.  Saw someone lay it back and popped off breaking their ankle.  Hope to do it again this fall when I'm back east.  Cheers

I find it nice to place a current purple BD C4-- the Number 5. I haven't found it gets in my way. A #4 will work but the 5 can be placed higher. If we're up there at the same time I'd be glad to lend you the piece.

disappointed this was not a FS/FT post

Gunkiemike wrote: I find that a piece large enough to "make you feel good" gets severely in the way as you squirm up the crack. But I suppose it's less of a problem if you (redacted) the crack instead of (redacted).

lol

Redacting is how I ended up finally getting through that section.  And a lot of cursing.

SethG wrote: I find it nice to place a current purple BD C4-- the Number 5. I haven't found it gets in my way. A #4 will work but the 5 can be placed higher. If we're up there at the same time I'd be glad to lend you the piece.

I also found the best placement is relatively deep in the crack, which puts it out of the way for the most part.

Both pitches of Baby are excellent, great to see others appreciating it as well.

Seth and all on this thread thank you.  I used Seth’s #5 in the off width and squirmed my way up.

I put my right leg into the crack; is that (redacting) or (redacting).

The moves felt solid. Budman’s tip on leg in was useful.  After GunkieMike’s comment, I placed #4 and the the #5 deep into the crack and neither piece interferes with my arm or leg jams.  This was a tip I saw on a Tom Randall/Pete Whitaker crack School video and never had opportunity to apply before today.  I also found some cool features in there which was fun. (Kevin, read your post on the way home. ) I don’t have tricams but carry totems and found the totems protected well.

All in all, I loved the climb. I’m happy there wasn’t more of it.  I made one move above the #5 and that was plenty exciting.

Thank you all, especially Seth, for the tips and offers to use your gear.  

LivePerched sends on Baby!

That little pod/crack ends up being less challenging than it looks.  Be cool, make a move, then grab the giant jugs at the top and place a #1.

Russ Keane wrote: That little pod/crack ends up being less challenging than it looks.  Be cool, make a move, then grab the giant jugs at the top and place a #1.

Agreed. And now... off to Keyhole. It's only one grade harder. Should be a cruise, right?   RIGHT??

Gunkiemike wrote:

Agreed. And now... off to Keyhole. It's only one grade harder. Should be a cruise, right?   RIGHT??

The Gunks app has Baby and Keyhole both as 5.7, the same grade. LOL.

just go up it, it’s fine. 

Seriously though, what would you recommend as a well protected 5.6?  (Placing a #5 is not a prerequisite.)

High Exposure

Maria (all three pitches are very well protected).

Disneyland

Rhododendron

Shockley's

Live Perched wrote: Seriously though, what would you recommend as a well protected 5.6?  (Placing a #5 is not a prerequisite.)

There are tons of good ones which aren't in the Peregrine closure. Ones I'd personally recommend:

• Laurel (throw down a boulder pad for the crux start and this is as G as it gets)
• Wrist
• Shockley's Ceiling
• Madame G

I haven't done Credibility Gap or Double Chin, but I've heard good things. Maria was a good climb but protection was a bit sparser than I wanted.

Horseman goes at 5.6 if you go through the roof instead of traversing around it as most people do, and it's one of my favorite climbs.

SethG wrote: High Exposure

Maria (all three pitches are very well protected).

Disneyland

Rhododendron

Shockley's

High Exposure is in the Peregrine falcon closure.

SethG you are truly a good man. Gud on ya LivePerched!  Way to get it done!  The 2 or 3 moves at the crux are great fun.  But how did you enjoy the second pitch?

Horseman took all the nerve I could muster. I backed off the first time after seeing a guy split his scalp popping off Rhododendron.  Great climbing, easier than Baby but there is no way I am going to do it the harder way. The exposure and weird moves bug me out.  

Disneyland...I really like that idea.

Thank you