Rain all week - RRG (Memorial Weekend 2018)

As stated, looks pretty gnarly...any thoughts on if the rock will be able to be climbed Saturday/Sunday? I've read some of the overhangs stay dryish in rain conditions, but thinking a week full of rain might change that.

There's always dry rock across the grade range.  The heat and maybe condensation from humidity will be a bigger deal than the rain.

What grades are you looking to climb? Just sport or some trad?

Thanks for the reply!

We'll have a group with varied skill, so anything 5.9-5.11s, maybe a 12 here and there if they look decent. All sport routes.

Drive-By has great 10's and up at PMRP and stays pretty dry.  Lots of other walls will stay partly dry (Chocolate Factory, Gallery, etc).

At Muir: Bruise Brothers, Johnny's Wall, Techtonic Wall etc.  

At Miller Fork: Coopers Cove, Serenity, and Chaos walls.  Roadside and Zoo both have stuff from 5.10a on up that stays dry.  

You can search by "stays dry" at redriverclimbing.com: this should get you started.

I'd like to inquire regarding how dry the rock will/can stay when comparing "rain" vs. the anticipated lightning and thunderstorms this coming week.  Is it realistic to be able to expect to climb the entirety of next week?  Saturday to Saturday.

Are there any specific crag suggestions/recommendations regarding guaranteed dryness?  Thus far, the only thing I'v looked at is Bruise Brothers, but from photos/videos is doesn't seem like it's a covered area?

I'm only looking for single pitch sport.  I'm on sighting 5.9's outdoors and a bit comfortable on 5.10 outdoors.  My partner is fairly confident on 5.10+ as well.  A large majority of the routes claiming to be dry are 5.10 or harder though and I'm not sure how feathery the grades will be at RRG.

My original expectation was to be there for the entirety of next week, not sure if this is reasonable any more.  This is my search query, but I don't know how accurate this is regarding guaranteed dryness: goo.gl/c21kHc  and a large majority of this is 5.11

That grade range is kind of tough because most climbs at that grade are not overhanging. You'll instead need to look for walls which have a cap stone above, like at Bruise Brothers. That wall is probably your best bet for dry climbs in that grade range. I would start there. 

Ted   wrote: I'd like to inquire regarding how dry the rock will/can stay when comparing "rain" vs. the anticipated lightning and thunderstorms this coming week.  Is it realistic to be able to expect to climb the entirety of next week?  Saturday to Saturday.

Are there any specific crag suggestions/recommendations regarding guaranteed dryness?  Thus far, the only thing I'v looked at is Bruise Brothers, but from photos/videos is doesn't seem like it's a covered area?

I'm only looking for single pitch sport.  I'm on sighting 5.9's outdoors and a bit comfortable on 5.10 outdoors.  My partner is fairly confident on 5.10+ as well.  A large majority of the routes claiming to be dry are 5.10 or harder though and I'm not sure how feathery the grades will be at RRG.

My original expectation was to be there for the entirety of next week, not sure if this is reasonable any more.  This is my search query, but I don't know how accurate this is regarding guaranteed dryness: goo.gl/c21kHc  and a large majority of this is 5.11

Your search list is relatively accurate, but for routes that are "climbable" rather than "guaranteed" dry. After a lot of rain, there is some seepage, so even on climbable routes I would expect a wet hold or three, and if you aren't sold at the grade, they might make a difference between being able to do the route, and not.

Bruise Brothers is a solid bet for having multiple climbable routes in close proximity, in the grade you are looking for. It would be crowded. But the rest of the dry routes in the 5.10 range would be scattered throughout the gorge here and there, not concentrated in one spot.

The most glaring inaccuracy on your list would be Cooper's Cove. A lot of routes are listed as dry, but other than 5.8 called Nistagmus (3 bolts... located away from the main wall, under a big roof) most everything on the main wall would be wet, even the 11's, due to runoff. The 10c, Roadkill, has the best chance of dryness, or at least climbability, but if there is any wind, I wouldn't bet on it, the runoff+will would get it for sure... At Infirmary, nearby, you can get a dry 5.8 (ReCooperAte, also quite short), and one dry each of 10a (Typhoid Mary), 10b (Aquagenic Urticaria) , 10d (Pre-op). The 10d would be dry as far as climbing goes, but whoever is cleaning the anchors would get a full shower. The Magic Bed and Phantom pain (11b&c) would be dry, with a wet anchor-clipping hold on 11b,  but the 11a next to Pre-op will not be.

5.10s at Roadside (you need to go online, register, and make a donation if you go there) are climbable in the rain, but we are talking 1 10a, 2 10c's, and 1 10d's, and without knowing anything about your friend's solidity at 10+ it might not be good for a full day (not trying to insult anyone here, but I have seen examples of "solid on 10+"  actually translated into "I have dogged my way up two 10c's, and almost made it to the top of 10d once")

Couple 5.10s at the Zoo would be dry.

Couple 5.10s at Drive-by.

Honestly, if I were in your shoes, and there was an option to reschedule the trip, and a flexibility to make plans when the weather is good, I would. but if you are flying, or are otherwise tied to these dates, it wouldn't be so horrible, even if it isn't going to be great..

Lena has good advice. It was wetter last year and we found plenty of dry rock. Honestly the weather doesn't look that bad for spring in RRG if you are committed (like me this weekend). Or it will rain like crazy, who knows.

We have a cabin, board games, beer, a hot tub. Worst case you hang out with good friends. Also it is helpful if more people bail for the rest of us. :)

I appreciate all the help - Sadly I'm pretty committed and I'm going to try and tough it out.  I dreamed of getting 50 ticks this trip and I think I'll be lucky to meet half that given the conditions, but who knows.  

At least the weather has slightly improved.  Fingers Crossed.

I hope to see you there Parker.

You can probably get 50 ticks if you want. Just have to get after it. I mean just getting up and climbing around the rain can let you know things out. Last fall my GF and I both took down 10 routes (although fairly easy) in 4 hours between 3 walls in Muir. 

I bailed.  The final hour to decide had 6 out of 9 days showing 70% rain.  I postponed by 1 week

Those who went, how was it?  Seems like the weather turned out better than I anticipated.

Awesome yesterday, 4 pitches before it rained for for a 30 min today (bit of a group so I am just puting up top ropes for people mostly). Could have kept climbing but decided to go grill out and hang with friends (also owned everyone at settlers). Ropes dryingg out, tomorrow looks good. Very limited crowds for a holiday weekend.

Overall 2 good days and the next 2 look good

Parker Wrozek wrote: Awesome yesterday, 4 pitches before it rained for for a 30 min today (but of a group so I am just turning up top ropes for people mostly). Could have kept climbing but decided to go grill out and hang with friends (also owned everyone at settlers). Ropes seeinyg out, tomorrow looks good. Very limited crowds for a holiday weekend.

Overall 2 good days and the next 2 look good

I'm happy to hear you had a good time, and bitter that I need to wait an additional week :(  

Regardless, I'd appreciate an update on how the rest of your week pans out regarding rain!

Good but somewhat crowded climbing today. No rain. Got up starry night so that was cool considering how hot/humid it is.

To rap it up it rained on the North Sunday night but the climbing was good on Monday. Thanks to everyone who bailed keeping the crowds down for a holiday weekend. It was hot and humid though, hard climbing was tough, I saw a lot of people pitching of 11s and 12s, myself included, that probably due to wetness and humidity.

Thanks for the insight Parker.

Weather looks more promising this weekend.  Hopefully crowds are manageable

Climbed everyday, the rain forecast worked well to keep away the crowds.