Sport Climbing or Bouldering near Cosby TN

Hi folks,

Currently living in Florida and was offered a chance to stay in a Cabin in Cosby TN - it's about an 8hr drive to the cabin from Jacksonville.  During this time, I would like to spend a few days climbing but I could use some help finding suitable places for me to climb, that aren't too far away - If you're not sure where Cosby is, it is about an hr west of Ashville and East of Knoxville TN.  It's like in the middle of nowhere, basically

I'm a moderate sport climber comfortably leading 5.9s with a go at some 5.10s outdoors -The two closest locations for sport climbing I came up with were:  Ijams Crag just outside Knoxville and Obed and Clear Creek west of Knox. - Both of which are still pretty far away, with Obed being even further.  I'd like to go to Chatanooga, but 4hrs away for a single day takes it off the table entirely.

My group and I wouldn't mind some bouldering either if you could recommend a nice boulder field - Stony Bald seemed to be the closest about 1.5hrs away.  

I don't have a Trad rack at all, and based on my research it seems like it rules out NC entirely, any thoughts on this?  A large majority of the NC sport routes I looked at can often times call for a piece here and there.

Any opinions of my current options, and/or maybe I can get some insight at better places to go?  Ideally, keeping the driving to a minimum.

Thanks in advance.

Obed is your best bet for sport and bouldering in one location that is a reasonable distance from Cosby. Rumbling bald is two hours away and has limited pure sport at that level with lots of bouldering. It may be getting warm and overgrown at RB soon. I would say Stoney Bald is not worth a two hour drive, IMO.

Allan Ange wrote: Obed is your best bet for sport and bouldering in one location that is a reasonable distance from Cosby. Rumbling bald is two hours away and has limited pure sport at that level with lots of bouldering. It may be getting warm and overgrown at RB soon. I would say Stoney Bald is not worth a two hour drive, IMO.

I appreciate the help Allan.

I don't need both sport + boulder to be in one place.  In fact, I'm willing to drive longer distances so I can sport 2-3 days, and then spend 1 day bouldering at a closer location.  Would this change any of your recommendations?

What are your thoughts on spending a day at Ijams Crag?  I'm guessing this is the absolute closest sport wall to Cosby?

Do you have any experience with Blue Hole Falls?  Two of the areas:  Highball area + Upper blue Hole have some limited bouldering, but these two areas mapped at just barely an hr away - seemed reasonable for a hike + boulder day.

Rumbling Bald is out of the question.  It's only a 6.5hr drive from home, so I have plans to do that on a Thurs-Sunday trip.  Plus I would like to avoid driving 8hrs north only to drive back down 2hrs south

Hidden Valley in Virginia should be about 2 - 2 1/2 from Cosby.you could sport climb there then boulder at Grayson highlands down the road.  Boone has some sport crags and lots of bouldering - look for the dump, little Wilson , sunken treasure. They are all listed on here. Boone will be closer to 3 hours from there. 

Ijams is a decent spot that will have several routes at your grade.  I wouldn't necessarily recommend going out of your way for it as it's pretty short and it's an old quarry, but you can get a good day in there for sure.  I enjoy the climbing there, but I also live in Knoxville and can get in a couple hours after work.  You can combine climbing with mountain biking or paddle boarding/swimming at Mead's quarry for a pretty good day - plus breweries not too far away.  Obed is an amazing spot.  I would definitely check it out for a day or two if you can, although there aren't many routes at your grade, esp. with Little Clear being closed now

Do either of you Paul & Brian have experience with Blue Hole Falls?  

Two of the areas:  Highball area + Upper blue Hole have some limited bouldering, but these two areas mapped at just barely an hr away - seemed like a reasonable distance if we just wanted some bouldering + hiking for a day.  However, a different portion of Blue Hole Falls is showing as much further away on MP

Theo,

If you want something close, you can check out Look Rock. Not much there. Bouldering and a little TR maybe. Also Roaring Fork Motor Nature Trail has a little boudering here and there if you look around.

Theo   wrote: Do either of you Paul & Brian have experience with Blue Hole Falls?  

Two of the areas:  Highball area + Upper blue Hole have some limited bouldering, but these two areas mapped at just barely an hr away - seemed like a reasonable distance if we just wanted some bouldering + hiking for a day.  However, a different portion of Blue Hole Falls is showing as much further away on MP

No, sorry. Don’t know that one. 

paul.adams.3 wrote: esp. with Little Clear being closed now

Wait i must have missed something... when did little clear close?

Jameson Young wrote:

Wait i must have missed something... when did little clear close?

Maybe a month or so ago they posted that it was closed.  I haven't been there since, but I believe signs are posted near the creek.  Not much information about why as far as I've heard

Definitely spend some time at the Obed. There's plenty of good 10's there. Lilly Bluff is a good place to start. At that grade the climbing at the Obed is split between downward steeper jug pulling and more technical vert climbing with directional jugs and an emphasis on body positioning. It's one of my favorite places to climb (after the New, which is the best climbing in North America).

If you're staying for a couple days, stay at the Lilly Pad. Del and Marty are super great people and the beer is good. 

Seems like the overwhelming consensus is to spend the bulk of my trip at Obed.  I'll likely spend 1 day ijams, 2-3 Obed, and 1 day on a bouldering expedition if possible.  Thanks all and I will continue to listen to suggestions as they come.

Hidden Valley is pretty awesome. I would think it would probably be closer than the Obed but I’m not certain. Devil’s Racetrack is also worth a trip, only about 30-45 minutes outside of Knoxville and has some great moderates. The hardware on many of the climbs seems to be in a state of disrepair though. I don’t think ijams is really worth your time considering all the incredible climbing elsewhere in the area. Obed is awesome and should definitely not be missed if you haven’t climbed there before. South clear probably has the most moderates for you. I’d go to hidden valley or hit the racetrack and make your way down to the Obed.